Beaujolais

Beaujolais Nouveau — that fruity red juice that shows up on shelves the third Thursday every November — doesn't get a lot of respect in the wine world, as it's aged little more than a month after harvest. Yet it's still pretty hotly anticipated, and sadly, in America, the real Beaujolais is not. It's my hope that one day very soon, this will change, because the French region of Beaujolais does a wonderful job of producing Gamay, a light-bodied red wine varietal that's got a fruit-forward punch.

Those who are intent on getting to know Beaujolais should explore various wines from the region's 10 different 10 crus (areas), all of which have been known to produce serious, ageworthy wines. But if you're looking for something that's lighthearted with a Summer-spirited personality, then reach for Beaujolais-Villages, a wine that falls between the more serious crus and the less-than-mature Nouveau variety.

Beaujolais-Villages is usually released the following March after a harvest; it's usually not aged in oak, and released rather quickly (well under a year). The Georges Dubouef ($10), with its nose of raspberry and plum, is the epitome of such a wine: it has less weight and body than most reds, which means it's perfect for foods like Summer cheeses, pasta salads, and chicken salads. I'm looking forward to enjoying it on my next picnic. Have you ever had Beaujolais-Villages?

I haven't let up on my recent obsession with Cru Beaujolais, the most serious of the Gamay wines to come from France's Beaujolais region. As I mentioned before, it can have legitimate sense of place, complexity, and aging potential. My most recent find, a 2009 Cuvée Tardive (late blend) from Fleurie's Clos de la Roilette, is all those things and more.

I was so excited when I first read about this hard-to-find wine that I tracked down two bottles: one to drink today, and another to drink in five years. Right before my New Year's Eve bash, I cracked one open with close friends. The wine had a wonderful bouquet of cherry and spice, with just enough acidity and structure to show ageability. I couldn't get enough of its soft yet lingering finish. The next five years, I've decided, can't come soon enough!

What was the last wine that you bent over backward to seek out?

Every November, the big buzz award seems to go to Beaujolais Nouveau, the immature French red that signifies the year's wine harvest. I may or may not pop open a bottle, decide it tastes like paint thinner, and dump it down the drain. It's not a wine known for its complexity or balanced flavors.

Cru Beaujolais, on the other hand, is a serious wine in its own right. It may have a hard time shaking off its little brother's reputation, but Cru — which comes from one of 10 designated areas in the Beaujolais region — can have legitimate sense of place, complexity, and aging potential.

I've had an obsession with the stuff lately, especially with wines from Morgon. It's the second-largest winemaking village in the region, with volcanic soil that makes wines like this 2009 Raymond Bouland earthy and loamy, but with a ripe, dark fruit bouquet and nice length. Next time you're looking for a complex red under $25, I urge you to ask your local wine shop for a Cru Beaujolais recommendation. Have you had any nice bottles of Beaujolais lately?