Caperberries

Tips

Simple Tip: Mellow Capers and Anchovies in Milk

I've always loved incorporating the piquant flavors of anchovies and capers into pasta sauces or fish dishes.

I've always loved incorporating the piquant flavors of anchovies and capers into pasta sauces or fish dishes. But, as they are often brined or salt-packed, both can have an acerbic quality — so a little bit goes a long way.

I learned how to reduce the harshness while watching Manresa chef David Kinch prepare beef and oyster tartare at this year's Chefs' Holidays. To tone down capers, caperberries, or anchovies, soak them in milk for about a half hour. If you don't have milk, you can opt for warm water, which also helps to reduce salinity.

What are your tips for working with capers and anchovies?

salads

Summer of Salads: Nicoise Salad

Since PartySugar and I have been infatuated with salads this Summer, I thought it would be appropriate to pay homage to the French national holiday today with a specialty native to the Côte D'Azur region of France.

Since PartySugar and I have been infatuated with salads this Summer, I thought it would be appropriate to pay homage to the French national holiday today with a specialty native to the Côte D'Azur region of France.

Salade Nicoise, or Nicoise salad, originated in the town of Nice, and is made with boiled new potatoes, steamed haricots verts (baby green beans), boiled eggs, local olives, cured anchovies, and tomatoes, tossed in a Dijon mustard vinaigrette and topped with tuna. I selected a recipe that uses some classic ingredients, but also incorporates a few unconventional flourishes — like seared tuna and caperberries — for a current twist.

It's extremely important to note that the tuna should be removed from the pan immediately after searing — I left it in the pan after turning off the stove, and latent heat nearly cooked the tuna through. Bring a bite of French countryside to your kitchen when you read more

definition

Know Your Ingredients: Caperberries

If you were surprised to learn where capers came from, it might be helpful to get a primer on a close relative, the caperberry.

If you were surprised to learn where capers came from, it might be helpful to get a primer on a close relative, the caperberry. Do you know the difference between the two?

These oblong, semi-green fruits, which are picked from the same plant as capers, are similar in size to small grapes or olives. The berries have a brined, lemony taste that's reminiscent of capers, but with less salt and intensity. If the immature blossoms of the flowering bush aren't selected to become capers, they flower into a white and violet-colored bloom, and later fruit to produce a berry that, when brined, has a milder, less piquant flavor than a caper.

Caperberries have varied uses from their smaller counterparts; they're often eaten as a snack alongside antipasti or placed in lieu of olives as a garnish in Bloody Marys and martinis. They can also be incorporated into savory salads.

Do you prefer caperberries to capers? What are your favorite ways to consume them?