Duck

Peking duck, pekin duck . . . goose! Only one letter separates a "Pekin duck" from a "Peking duck," so the terms are often used interchangeably. But one paltry letter can be a big poultry difference; these words are both descriptors of ducks, but they're definitely not the same!

A Pekin duck is a breed of duck. Also known as a Long Island duck, this domesticated descendant of the Mallard has a yellow bill, white plumage, and orange webs and is the most popular commercial duck breed in America, where they're raised primarily for egg and meat production.

Peking duck is a famous roast duck dish that comes from China. Arguably China's national food, this imperial dish is made by roasting a duck until the skin is deep brown and crisp, then carving the skin to serve alongside steamed pancakes, julienned scallions, and hoisin sauce. The dish hails from Beijing, the country's capital, which was formerly known as Peking.

Peking duck originated in Nanjing, and the first ducks used to prepare the dish were small birds with dark feathers. Incidentally, these days, most Peking ducks are prepared using Pekin duck. How's that for irony?

Source: Thinkstock and Flickr User FotoosVanRobin

Last night I attended the Zinfandel Advocate and Producer's Good Eats and Zinfandel Pairing. It's a walk-around tasting where restaurants join forces with a winery and offer a bite of food that's paired with a specific wine. This was my fourth year at the event, and there was one major difference from the previous years: duck was everywhere! Normally lamb and beef dishes are highlighted, but yesterday it was all about duck. From spicy duck chili to duck risotto laced with bacon, chefs from all over the San Francisco Bay Area were offering their take on the delicious bird.

I couldn't help but wonder: is duck becoming more mainstream? Duck's often praised for its fat, which is perfect for frying and makes scrumptious fries, but it's also a versatile meat that works well in everything from braises to pasta sauces. In fact, I served duck at my New Year's Eve party and it was the first time I cooked with the protein in my own home. It was a rewarding and tasty experience and I plan on experimenting with it more.

How about you? Do you cook with duck? Will you order duck in a restaurant?

Last week, I took a trip to Yosemite National Park for the kickoff session of The Ahwahnee's annual Chefs' Holidays. The event ended with a big blowout dinner, but I walked away with tons of tips. Chef Matt Bolton, who runs the kitchen at Pacific's Edge restaurant in Carmel's Highlands Inn, showed the audience how to confit a duck leg to make pâté-like rillette.

But I was most impressed with his other dish, tiny cubes of butternut squash slow-cooked in the style of risotto, and topped with foraged mushrooms. While preparing his dishes, Bolton offered a number of suggestions for cleaning, storing, and cooking with fungi. See them when you read on.

Around December, so much focus gets put on edible gifts and Christmas cookies that it can be easy to forget about the star of the holiday meal. If you want to impress without going through too much trouble, don't discount duck breast: it has all the exotic cachet of a game bird, without any of the fuss.

Regardless of how little you know about duck, you can't go wrong with its à l'orange preparation; the acidity of a sweet-tart orange glaze cuts through the fowl's robust flavor. Go all out by reducing the orange juice and segmenting fresh oranges to serve alongside the roast; otherwise, a pre-made glaze like orange marmalade does the trick. Make either version when you keep reading.