Greek Wines

When the mercury rises, it's so easy to turn to the usual suspects — in my case, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Portuguese Vinho Verde, or any sort of French rosé — that it's easy to overlook other refreshing contenders.

Case in point: Moschofilero from Greece. If you've never enjoyed Greek wines before, then know that the varietals can be a mouthful (Agiorgitiko and Xinomavro, anyone?), but the pronunciation is totally worth the payoff. Aegean whites have a thirst-quenching acidity, and Moschofilero is known for its pale straw color and botanical bouquet. I spotted this once-obscure varietal on the shelves of my local Whole Foods, which means only one thing: Moschofilero (and wines of Greece) have truly hit the big time.

The Kyklos Moschofilero ($10) was memorable and lovely; its tart finish makes it ideal for seafood salads and raw tomato pastas. With a nose of oregano herb and lavender, it reminded me of a Summer garden. And, well, I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be this time of year. Have you ever come across Moschofilero?

Photo: Anna Monette Roberts

Not familiar with Greek wines? Here's a remarkable wine to start with: 2010 Lyrarakis Dafni. This bottle by Lyrarakis is made entirely from a rare Cretan grape called Dafni that, just a few decades ago, was on the brink of extinction.

The varietal is named after the word daphne, which refers to the laurel plant that's prized for its bay leaves, and for good reason. A first sniff reveals layers of complex botanical flavors, ranging widely from juniper to eucalyptus, spearmint, and — dare I say? — laurel leaves. This bouquet's followed by a rich, long-lasting finish with a nice amount of acidity.

For less than $15 retail, it's hard to believe a wine can leave such an indelible impression. If you're looking for a white that tastes unlike anything you've experienced, this is it. Which whites are among the most memorable that you've ever had?