Spanish Wines

We tried a Tempranillo Rosé earlier in our wine month, but it was time to try a real vino rojo de España, which is why we uncorked the Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva 2004 ($25). Spanish winery Campo Viejo is old indeed and has been around La Rioja, a province in northern Spain, since 1959.

The prestigious-looking bottle caught our eye with its wire netting and regal label, and we quickly learned more about it: this particular bottle contains 85 percent Tempranillo, the indigenous grape of the area. And although Tempranillo translates to "early," because the grape ripens before other red grape varietals, our bottle was aged eight years and in oak barrels for 24 months.

The wine poured brick red and opaque, with a strong woodsy bouquet that filled the room upon opening. Fruits of the Summer like cherry and blueberry hit the nose. It was big and masculine, with high tannins, and after that wash of berries, the wine finished heavy with flavors of cigars and toast that lingered on the palate. Intended to be a slow-sipping wine to savor with fatty, rich foods, the Gran Reserva would be best enjoyed with rich Spanish tapas, stinky cheeses, and grilled red meats.

It's often said that dry, rocky terrain contributes to the best grapes, full of concentrated, ultra-jammy flavors. Such is the case for the 2009 Las Rocas Garnacha ($15), which stems from Aragon, the northeastern region of Spain. Garnacha, although not familiar to many US wine drinkers, is one of the most commonly planted red grapes in the world, because it has the ability to withstand intense heat, is easily fermentable, and its signature flavor is widely liked.

On the nose, Garnacha has a sweet and sour quality like blackberries or cranberries. The extremely warm and dry weather conditions contribute to the wine's slightly higher alcohol level, which is certainly felt upon first sip. The wine is most notable for its tart, peppery, and spicy flavors that seem to linger after swallowing. As the wine trails down, it warms the chest, and an instant-gratification buzz takes effect. Spanish cuisine is often fatty and rich, and this wine would help cut through the grease. Cheese like Manchego or tapas including chorizo, croquetas, or patatas bravas would work well with this dry yet crisp Spanish wine.

We're kicking off our July wine series with a fruity Spanish varietal that we feel would be perfectly at home at your next picnic in the park.

Wine preferences vary greatly at Sugar HQ, from those of us who gleefully imbibe it all to others who are more steadfast in their dedication to specific regions, grapes, and varietals. Yet we all agreed that this wine — inspired by the Temps de Flors garden festival in Girona, Catalan — is the sort of wine that can comfortably bridge the gap between devotees to sweeter whites and those whose mantra leans toward "the drier, the better." At $14, the 2010 Temps de Flors is a great value for sipping. It'd also make for an ideal white sangria. Thanks to Gewurztraminer and Muscat, it has strong floral notes that would complement stone fruits and fortified spirits.

One last aside: some connoisseurs may find this offensive, but we see nothing wrong with adding an ice cube to a glass of this on a particularly sweltering day; the wine's fragrant notes can handle the tempering that cold provides.

Have you tried Temps de Flors or something similar?

Photo: Anna Monette Roberts

When it comes to European wine regions, France and Italy hog all of the spotlight. However, Spain has been producing quality wine for the past 700 years, too. The Iberian peninsula's most popular wine making appellation is the Rioja. Situated just below the Pais Vasco in the central Northeast of Spain, Rioja is known for one grape in particular, Tempranillo. Over 90 percent of the wine produced in Rioja is red and 85 percent of this is Tempranillo. Don't be intimidated if you're not a huge red wine drinker, Rioja also produces plenty of rose and white Tempranillo. To find out why you should be asking for Rioja at your local wine shop, read on.

San Francisco's recent heat wave has left me craving nothing but cold, crisp, bone-dry whites. My recent favorite? The 2009 vintage of Pedro Escudero's Valdelainos Verdejo. If you're a big Sauvignon Blanc drinker, give Spanish Verdejo a try. I promise you won't regret sipping the lesser-known varietal.

This particular wine had a pale yellow-green appearance that reinforced its lemony, flinty nature. The practically weightless wine had splendid aromas of citrus, cantaloupe, and honey. It paired wonderfully with a cup of briny red clam chowder, but was just as easy to enjoy alone. You can find this vintage at Spanish specialty stores, online, or through the Williams-Sonoma wine club. For $13.50, it's a tremendous steal. Have you tried Verdejo?