The New Thanksgiving

If you're wondering what type of roast this is, it's not a turkey, and it's not a turducken. It's tofurky, the vegan roast made of tofu and seitan (vital wheat gluten). The team of YumSugar editors excitedly tore open the package and practically preheated the oven when Tofurky sent us a holiday roast to try, but we wondered if others would share our enthusiasm. Meat eaters who have never dabbled with vegetarianism tend to be weirded out by imitation meats made of tofu. Without seasoning, tofu's jiggly, tasteless, and reminiscent of bland Jello — and it's true that the raw roast looks unimpressive, like a pale pink slab of salami. So how can it possibly transform into a pretty darn good mock turkey? How can fake turkey possibly have a crispy skin; moist, salty meat that tastes like it's been brined for days; and fluffy rosemary rice stuffing in the middle?

Just as meat doesn't look as appetizing when raw, try to overlook the way Tofurky comes out of its casing. The success of the Tofurky Roast ($10) depends on following the recipe on the back of the packaging. Place it over a bed of root vegetables, roast it slowly for over an hour while continually basting it with a sage and soy sauce oil, and the roast develops a crispy outer coating that starts to look very much like a real turkey breast. The liquid runoff from the basting liquid leaves the veggies slightly caramelized and infused with sage. As I waltzed into the office carrying my proud roast, a nostalgic waft of holiday scents (onions, herbs, sweet potatoes) trailed behind me and attracted curious noses who followed me into the kitchen to snag a bite. But did the flavor match the amazing scent?

In one of the most surprising taste tests we've had to date, tasters exclaimed that the Tofurky's flavor is "totally unexpected" and "straight-up delicious!" Everyone gushed over the crispy, crackly "skin" of the Tofurky, which is arguably the most authentic-tasting part of the veggie roast. Bursting with salty umami flavor, the skin paves the way toward even more enticing fare — the actual veggie meat.

Many were shocked by how similar the Tofurky's texture and flavor is to a brined turkey. A few felt like the "bouncy, thick texture is a little off-putting," but the remarkable flavor surpasses any textural shortcomings. In the very center, the rosemary rice stuffing has an herbal fragrance and moist, grainy texture that some described as comforting, familiar, and definitely a surprise bonus that enhanced the faux bird.

Ultimately, would people be willing to swap a this roast out for a turkey? Many would, but some wouldn't. A few claimed they wouldn't miss the turkey if they made a tofurky roast, while others were a little hesitant. One or two commented that the roast wasn't 100 percent like turkey, so even though their opinions have changed about Tofurky products, they're likely to stick to the bird this Thanksgiving.

We think this tofurky is surprisingly good — as in good enough to secure a spot on our Thanksgiving table. Gone are the days of funky mock meats that check our gag reflexes. If there's a vegetarian at the table or if you're looking to forgo the bird for a more cost-efficient alternative, the tofurky roast may turn more heads than the turkey itself. Are you ready to change your opinion of tofu?

Learn to roast this veggie roast.

After 30 celebrations with the same turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, and jellied cranberries, I've decided it's time to make a change. This year, it'll be all about modernizing the traditional Turkey Day meal: think spiced curried pumpkin soup, a fluffy millet-pomegranate salad, and a spin on Southern squash casserole with California cheese and a crumbly gremolata topping. And standing in for mashed potatoes will be none other than the seasonally appropriate and wildly underrated celery root.

This edible root has an intensely bright celery flavor, which stands well on its own but even better when paired with nutty flavors. I amped up this component of the dish by taking inspiration from New York chef Michael Anthony, who purees his celery root with a buttery "burnt" milk, and Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin, who tops her celeriac with hazelnut oil and toasted hazelnuts for crunch. The result is a stunning marriage of earthy flavors that truly speaks to the legacy of Thanksgiving. Keep reading for a new Thanksgiving side dish recipe.

A green bean casserole isn't a green bean casserole unless it's smothered in cream of mushroom soup and topped with crispy onions. But because the original Campbell's recipe uses soy sauce to add a boost of umami, I decided I'd try a version of green bean casserole that plays up Asian flavors.

This casserole tastes every bit as indulgent as the original recipe, but it's made lighter by thinning the cream of mushroom soup with vegetable broth. In this Japanese-meets-American rendition, I caramelized the onions and deglazed them with mirin, a sweet Japanese rice wine. Rather than relying on French's fried onions from the can, I breaded the onions in panko (Japanese breadcrumbs). The buttery, breaded, and caramelized onions have a richer flavor than the fried, packaged stuff and are like savory sprinkles atop the creamy green beans and mushroom mixture.

If you're fearful that this dish will taste like stir-fry, don't worry: the resulting dish maintains the integrity of the classic American casserole. As the casserole cooks, your kitchen will be infused with the smell of buttery onions and earthy mushrooms; you'll know it's ready when the thick cream of mushroom soup starts to bubble through the crispy caramelized onions.

Try a new green bean casserole this Thanksgiving.

Part of celebrating Thanksgiving is enjoying traditions and favorite recipes, but you can always move things around to make more table real estate for new dishes. My sister and I love to introduce the whole family to unusual ingredients like millet, so last Thanksgiving, we made a new version of our favorite lentil and millet salad. Instead of tomatoes, this version of the salad is dazzled with ruby-red pomegranate seeds. My sister and I marveled at the pleased expressions on our family's faces as they munched the salad and even went back for seconds. In a sea of butter and cream, everyone agreed that it was nice to have something healthful and light on the plate.

The main ingredient in this recipe is the pseudograin millet, a small seed that becomes fluffy and chewable when cooked like a grain. It has a roasted, buttery popcorn flavor that is achieved by dry-roasting the seeds prior to cooking. Imagine how popcorn kernels, when exposed to high heat, pop open to reveal their melt-in-your-mouth interior; the same is true for millet.

Lovers of legumes will appreciate the starchy lentils, reminiscent of potatoes, dotted throughout the salad. With each bite, the pomegranate seeds burst and dress the salad in their tart juice, so there is no need to add any vinegar. Lemons, parsley, and green onions are simple ingredients that can be found at any grocery store, yet their flavors perk up the roasted flavor of the millet. I love to serve this salad on a bed of spinach, lightly dressed in olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Make this side dish for your Thanksgiving.

Rich in flavor yet light on the butter and cream, curried pumpkin soup is an easy Thanksgiving starter or a simple entrée that can be stored in the fridge for guests to enjoy during the holiday weekend. This particular pumpkin soup has an Indian twist with the addition of ginger, curry powder, and coconut milk; however, it is not overwhelmingly spicy or palate-burning.

While you might want to forgo using fresh pumpkin in baked goods, it's a must when making homemade pumpkin soup. Yes, it takes a while for the pumpkin to roast, but once the gourd is cooked through, the soup comes together in no time. Plus, roasting real pumpkin lets you reserve the pumpkin seeds and toast them for the topping.

The pumpkin makes the soup thick, fibrous, and slightly sweet, while the freshly toasted pumpkin seeds are fun to munch on. The Indian curry and fresh ginger make this soup plenty spicy, and a dash of cayenne heightens the fiery burn. The fluffy dollop of Greek yogurt gives the soup a tart bite and mellows out the spice.

Depending on how much parsley you use, you can consider it a "dose" of green vegetables before the indulgent Thanksgiving mains are served. I like a large handful, which wilts into an easy-to-chew, spinach-like texture. Learn how to make it.

During my childhood, I spent most Thanksgivings in Mississippi and enjoyed the same casserole dishes that my relatives did a century ago. One of my favorite Thanksgiving casseroles is my great-grandmother Mama Dale's squash casserole. In the traditional recipe, the squash, covered in buttery Ritz crackers, cheddar cheese, and eggs, bakes into a custardy casserole that is the best "vegetable" side dish that a kid can ask for.

I still anxiously await digging into the pillowy, yellow fluff during the holidays, but this year I wondered how the casserole would fare with the addition of California ingredients. Living in San Francisco, I've become accustomed to the amazing variety of local cheeses, sourdough bread, Meyer lemons, and flourishing parsley.

Learn to make the updated squash casserole.