red wine

Conventional wisdom maintains that white wine pairs better with cheese than red. There's certainly some validity to that statement, but with the right kind of red wine and cheese, this can be done to elegant effect, as I recently learned at a seminar taught by experts Laura Werlin and Naomi Smith at the Artisan Cheese Festival.

Much of the issue with pairing red wine with cheese comes down to tannins (the bitter, mouth-drying component present in red wine, tea, coffee, and some fruits like acai), which are notably absent from white wine. When selecting wines, choose a red with integrated tannins — think smooth and velvety, rather than rough and harsh. Wines grown in a cooler climate — think Oregon, Washington State, or Sonoma versus Napa — and particular milder, lighter-bodied wines like Pinot Noir or a restrained Cabernet Sauvignon are a safer bet. Look for a wine with an alcohol content of 14 percent or less when pairing with cheese, as these wines are less likely to overpower their cheesy companions.

Keep reading to learn what cheeses are generally most compatible with red wine.

Ever since I had my first sip of Carignane (from Sonoma County's Qualia wines), I've been a woman obsessed, seeking out the light and juicy red at every opportunity. Once considered barely drinkable dreck, Carignane — also known as Carignan (France), Carignano (Italy), or Cariñena (Spain) — has recently begun to overcome its unsavory reputation, as is evidenced by its increasing prominence, and I couldn't be happier. Here's why you should care:

• Originally the most planted grape in France (grown primarily in the southern Languedoc region), the grape suffered from overabundance, poor stewardship, and a quantity over quality mentality. Until recently, it was most commonly utilized in harsh, prohibitively astringent, generic vin rouge blends and garnered little respect in the wine world.
• Over the past few decades, yields have dramatically decreased with about a 50 percent reduction in vine acreage, largely in part due to EU subsidies that encouraged vintners to pull up large crops of the grape, leaving behind primarily older-growth grapes. With this shift came an uptick in quality, as older vines tend to produce a more concentrated, less harsh flavor, as Carignane, like many high-yield grapes, tends to suffer from dilution of flavor.

Keep reading for more tantalizing tidbits.

Although still a rare sight, sparkling red wines are quickly gaining ground in wineries and restaurants across the United States. My first experience with this effervescent treat was a few years back at De Kas in Amsterdam, and more recently, I've seen the varietal hit Gioia Pizzeria, my go-to local pizza place. Generally speaking, Italian Brachetto and Lambrusco are what's on offer, as they're the most well-known examples of red sparklers, but there are a handful of worthy bottles produced on our own home turf.

Today's bottle comes from Northern California's Chandon Winery, a proud maker of an exceptional sparkling red ($30). This Pinot Noir and Zinfandel blend is currently exclusively available at the winery, making a visit to the gorgeous Yountville location all the more enticing, and here's why.

Mention Sonoma or Napa in a conversation, and most people will nod their heads in recognition; sadly, the same can't be said of Mendocino, even though its high elevation and moist, mineral-rich soil make it an ideal region for wine production. Near tailor-made for Pinot Noir (a favorite around Sugar HQ), discover Mendocino's finest with a bottle of 2009 La Follette Manchester Ridge Pinot Noir. While it's on the pricier side at $50 a bottle, the carefully crafted wine exemplifies the vibrant Pinots that come out of this up-and-coming area.

The wine's cherry and rose scent coaxed us to pour a glass on the heavier side, and as we sipped, the flavor bloomed on our palates. Smooth yet smoky, jammy yet peppery, and floral yet earthy: each sip built upon itself with new notes. Although many Pinot Noirs are thinner bodied and lower in tannins, this wine held its own without being overly acidic. We'd pair it with rich, crispy duck confit or a vegetarian entrée with portobello mushrooms.

We've been on a bit of an Italian wine kick lately at Sugar HQ, imbibing everything from spumante Rosé to smooth Valpolicella. Now, you might think that this recent surge would quell my interest in the region (at least temporarily), but rather, I've found myself lingering longingly in the Italian section of the wine store, plotting my next exploration by glass.

Today's find was a happy accident of sorts, plucked off the shelf by my beau at random — or so he says — to pair with a home-cooked Italian feast. The 2008 Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulicano ($20), demarcated with an official, purple DOCG label, signifies this wine is truly sourced from Tuscany. Further establishing its authentic Italian origins, the wine is a blend of Sangiovese, Colorino, and Mammolo grapes. Although it sounded foreign to our taste buds, the first sip had us sold. We found that its light body and velvety-smooth texture paired exceptionally well with a range of Italian cuisine, from bucatini coated in vodka sauce to pork ragu.

One last note: while we relished this bottle in its relatively young state, this is the sort of wine that's worth aging. So if you're feeling particularly canny, snap up a bottle or two, and hold tight. I can only imagine what wonders a few years will add.

Throughout the course of our wine month, we've extolled our fair share of ripe, full-bodied Pinots and robust Veronese blends. But the latest red we've tried is quite the opposite: it shines through in a subtle, understated way.

The 2010 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($46) is the latest appellation Pinot to come out of Twomey Cellars, the folks behind the renowned Silver Oak Cellars. We were lured by its intense aroma, a sweet scent of berries, black cherry, and smoke; "I just want to smell this all day and not drink it," one taster said.

But drink this we did, and without abandon. The wine, which was surprisingly light-bodied, had a nice amount of acidity and a silky-smooth finish. "Klassy with a K," another taster declared, in one of her finer moments. Classy indeed: we wish we had some dried fruit and a quality washed-rind cheese to wash down another bottle.

Photos: Anna Monette Roberts