red wines

When I first received this bottle of Bordeaux in the mail, its Bad Boy name and whimsical label, which features a black sheep and an arrow labeled "garage," meant little to me. But after doing some research, I discovered the whole thing makes quite a bit of sense.

The inky red wine, which is 95 percent Merlot and 5 percent Cabernet Franc, hails from the famous French region of Bordeaux, which is known for its style of highly tannic, collectible wines. But this bottle is different: It's the venture of Jean-Luc Thunevin, a leader in what's known as the garage wine movement, an effort that's focused on developing bolder, fruitier Bordeaux wines that can be enjoyed right away.

Wine critic Robert Parker deemed Bordeaux's black sheep, Thunevin, a "bad boy," which explains how the wine's name came to be. It may be a silly name, but the wine is satiny, with earthy plum notes, and the subtlest hint of smoke. And, at $17.50, it's priced rather affordably. Are you familiar with this wine and Bordeaux's garage wine movement?

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Red wine headache, or RWH, has long been a subject of contention. Contrary to popular belief, it isn't caused by sulfites (both sweet white wines and dried fruits contain more sulfites than red wine), but rather compounds found in grape skins. Still, no single chemical has conclusively proven to be the culprit.

Some believe the cause is a group of chemicals, which include tyramine, histamine, and others. Red wine contains higher levels of these, because it's produced using the grape's skin and juice. Other scientists theorize that tannins, another byproduct of grape skins, could be at fault. Still others point to lipid compounds. These potential culprits vary among red wines. If you aren't ready to give up red wine just yet, experts suggest trying a small glass of different brands and varietals — like less-tannic Burgundies, Riojas, and Pinot Noir — then noting whether they cause a headache, which would likely appear within 15 minutes.

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In general, during the warmer months, I prefer white wines, but ever since I attended a wine and chocolate pairing earlier this Summer, I've been prone to winding down with a chunk of chocolate and a glass of big, complex red wine.

My recent favorite? The ridiculously low-priced 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon from Lander-Jenkins ($14). I've gotten into the habit of pulling out the largest stemware I have, pouring myself a few ounces of this dark Cabernet, and watching Conan O'Brien's monologue before climbing into bed.

I love that it's full-bodied but not overly tannic. A swirl in the glass produces thick tears of liquid, indicating a high alcohol content, yet each sip is incredibly smooth. The wine's plummy, mellow flavor pairs perfectly with a piece (or two) of dark chocolate. Have you ever tried Lander-Jenkins Cabernet? What did you think of it?