seasonings

Sometimes I follow recipes to the letter, but most of the time I stick to preparations that allow me to absentmindedly add a pinch of this and a dash of that to achieve a perfectly seasoned plate. There are, of course, the basics like salt and pepper, but more often than not, I find myself reaching for the bottle of fish sauce. This umami-laden Southeast Asian staple made from fermented fish may sound like an odd ingredient for pasta dishes or salad dressings, but its saltiness and — I'm just going to say it — stinkiness provide an interesting slant on what would otherwise be a run-of-the-mill dish.

So tell us: what's your go-to seasoning when you cook?

Photo: Susannah Chen

If you love shore food like I do, then chances are, you're familiar with Old Bay seasoning. But what exactly is it, and how did it attain the cult status that it has today?

Old Bay Seasoning is a proprietary spice mix that's become a seafood staple. The blend, which was named after the Chesapeake Bay, was first created in the 1940s by a Baltimore spice merchant, and soon became a popular accoutrement among East Coasters for steamed, hard shell crabs. In the 1990s, spice company McCormick purchased the brand, preserving its distinctive yellow box and logo, but bringing Old Bay to supermarket spice aisles across America.

The recipe of the mix is a closely-guarded secret, but there have been many attempts to recreate the exact blend of cinnamon, ginger, mustard, bay leaves, celery seed, laurel, and black and red pepper. Old Bay is often used in fish and shellfish dishes, corn on the cob, and French fries — although modern-day recipes call for the seasoning in everything from eggs to stir-fries. How do you use Old Bay?

It wasn't until St. Patrick's Day was on the horizon that I started using pickling spice. Before that, I was barely aware of its existence.

When you purchase pickling spice at the store, what you're actually buying is a blend of spices, such as cassia bar, mustard seeds, coriander, allspice, peppercorns, juniper berries, dill seeds, fennel seeds, celery seeds, bay leaves, ginger, mace, and hot red pepper.

The mixture, which may vary by spice supplier, is used for pickled, canned vegetables such as cabbage, onions, and bread-and-butter pickles; fish, like salmon and herring; and meat dishes, such as Irish corned beef and German sauerbraten.
Pickling spices are generally left whole, so as not to cloud the brine, and they're usually tied in a cheesecloth or sachet for easy removal after cooking. What do you use pickling spices for? Have you ever blended your own?