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José Andrés Brings Spain to the American Kitchen

partysugar — Tue, 06 Jan 2009 09:00:33 -0800

A couple of weeks ago I had the wonderful opportunity to speak with Spanish chef, José Andrés. From his recently opened Beverly Hills restaurant, The Bazaar, at the SLS Hotel to his PBS television show to his new cookbook, Made in Spain: Spanish Dishes For the American Kitchen, the chef has had a very busy end of 2008. He's opinionated, proud, and incredibly creative - Spanish master Ferran Adriá was his mentor. To find out what the chef had to say about his book and what he thinks of Mario Batali and Gwyneth Paltrow's televised trip around his native country, read more.

PartySugar: Tell me about the book.
José Andrés: It's a great book. I love to work on my books. Especially this one - every photo was shot in my house. The reason for the book is the television show. I'm trying to show America Spain. I want to get into the house of everyone who will let me in and show them Spanish cooking authentically.

PS: What's one Spanish dish you would recommend for the American home cook?
JA: To really bring the spirit of Spain into your house make toasted bread with good garlic. Rub the warm toasted bread with fresh tomatoes. Top with manchego cheese. It's the best option, you can make it for breakfast, lunch, dinner, whenever.

PS: What Spanish ingredients are must haves for the American kitchen?
JA: Spanish olive oil. It's the best. Piquillo peppers. Tuna packed in Spanish olive oil.

PS: What's your guilty pleasure food?
JA: I try to be a good role model for my young daughters and not commit too many crimes, but once in a while, I do have too many gin and tonics. Bombay Sapphire is my favorite. Some of my mixology friends think I don't have any refinement, but I don't care.

PS: When in the states, what do you most miss about Spain?
JA: The fish markets. America is very big, the fishing markets aren't right there. Barcelona is such a great fishing port with little fisherman who wake up in the morning early to get fish. Here, there are fisherman, but it's not the same freshness. Really good fresh fish is not as readily available for the average Joe. At the end, it is the ingredients that define the cooking of a country.

PS: Being a Spaniard, what do you think of the portrayal of your country in Mario Batali and Gywneth Paltrow's Spain on the Road Again?
JA: Well I can tell you my show was the first show that showed Spain to the Americas. The other show - I am very proud that they are highlighting my country. Anyone that is doing, telling anything to promote Spain is good. It only helps me on my mission. I have a very great relationship with them. I'm very happy that they did it.

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Wine Wisdom From Ravenswood Founder Joel Peterson

YumSugar — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 09:00:57 -0700

At a tasting recently, I had the opportunity to get acquainted with California pioneer vintner, Joel Peterson. In 1976, he founded Ravenswood Winery, one of the country's preeminent Zinfandel producers. More than 30 years later, he remains Ravenswood's head winemaker.

Joel's love for life and sense of humor were so infectious that I couldn't resist getting his insight into the world of wine. Learn more about his inspiration, as well as his tips for enjoying wine on a budget, when you read more

World's Largest Burger Among New Record-Setting Foods

YumSugar — Thu, 17 Sep 2009 13:00:43 -0700

It's a tale that'll go down in burger history. At an event this week in London, Guinness World Records revealed a host of new record breakers, among them a 185-pound, $499 whopper of a hamburger, which is officially the world's largest. The record belongs to Mallie's Sports Grill and Bar in Southgate, MI. Owner Steve Mallie, who said the bun must be baked for eight hours and the burger for 15 hours, remarked, "Being in the book is the greatest accomplishment we've ever done. I've worked my entire life to build this restaurant and being able to have the notoriety of Guinness makes it just that bit more rewarding."It seems, in today's world, that everything bigger is better. This week alone, Westhoughton, UK, garnered attention for serving the world's most massive English breakfast (10 sausages,10 rashers of bacon, 10 slices of toast, 10 eggs, fives slices of black pudding, and tomatoes, mushrooms, and black beans); Sacramento, CA, made headlines for a 42-foot-long, 1,200-pound tamale; and Valencians in Spain managed to assemble the world's longest restaurant table. At this rate, the next record will need to be for the world's most capable scale. Are these feats, like the Mallie's burger, legendary stuff, or simply gross?

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Spain Scores Record For World's Longest Restaurant Table

YumSugar — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 11:30:17 -0700

Perhaps the world's lengthiest dosa has finally found its place at table.

Over the weekend, a dining table measuring 1.258 kilometers, or more than three quarters of a mile, entered the Guinness World Records. The front-page furniture hailed from the Valencian town of El Campello in Spain.

The feat was made up of tables from at least 60 various local restaurants. Restaurants that contributed space were allowed to decorate, wait on, and serve diners at these tables to their liking. Despite the fact that the record-setting structure beat out an 2007 record held by a restaurant in Vienna, Austria, that was 1.176 kilometers long, every single seat at at the table was occupied. Do you enjoy dining at long tables?

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Neapolitan-Style Mac and Cheese Is Dangerously Addictive

YumSugar — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 15:30:49 -0700

I don't take advantage of them too often, but lazy Saturdays are the best. Not only because I'm at home enjoying doing nothing, but also because my favorite shows on KQED, San Francisco's public television station, all happen to be on: Check, Please!, Made in Spain, Lidia's Italy, and Secrets of a Chef.

Recently the boy and I were watching an episode of Lidia's Italy in which she prepares a Neapolitan version of mac and cheese. Her recipe called for ditalini in lieu of macaroni, smoked provola instead of American or cheddar, and bacon, potatoes, and diced tomato. We sat there in captivation, practically smelling the sizzle of smoked bacon vaporizing in our living room.

We were so tantalized that we drove to the grocery store to make it immediately, with the notes I'd taken while watching the show as our guide. It tasted just as good as we'd hoped. Later, I got my hands on the book for the written recipe. Want it? Read more.

Ray Isle on Rosé

partysugar — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 16:15:18 -0700

Each month when Food & Wine magazine arrives at my desk, I look forward to reading Ray Isle's latest article. As the deputy wine editor for the glossy, Isle writes interesting wine-related stories, recommends affordable pours, and pairs each of the recipes with an excellent variety. In short, he's incredibly knowledge in the world of wine. What I like best about Ray is his kind approachability: he doesn't have an ounce of wine snob in him. I was lucky enough to sit down with Ray on a warm afternoon at the Classic in Aspen and chat about one of the wine industry's hottest trends: Rosé.

To find out what Ray had to say about the pink wines you should be drinking, read more.

Before we could get started, Ray explained that there are two ways to make Rose. The traditional French method, known as saignée, employs red grapes. The juice soaks in the skins, but before the liquid turns into red wine, it is bled off. This pink juice is turned into Rosé. The second technique makes Rosé by simply mixing already-made red and white wines.

PartySugar: What happened to Rosé? How come it has such a bad rap?
Ray Isle: White zinfandel killed the image of dry Rosés. People didn't like the overly sweet white zin and any pink wine got lumped in with it.

PS: And why are we seeing a renaissance of Rosé now?
RI: Wine education is changing the way people drink wine. More and more people are becoming educated on wine. Before they didn't know that there was a category of really good dry Rosé, but now they do.

PS: Let's talk about the recent debate on Rosé production in Europe. Where do you stand?
RI: While it's typically cheaper for a wine maker to blend them, the quality of wine is inferior. They just don't taste as good as the wines made in the saignée method. I think the classical producers were right to stand up for their tradition.

PS: When shopping for Rosé what should one look for?
RI: First, don't spend more than $20. There are plenty of really great affordable Rosés out there. Look to a classic region like the South of France. The bottles don't have to say how the Rosé is made, so to ensure you get one made with the saignée method, it's best to look to a well-known region. For fruitier and richer Rosés select one from Spain or California. Etude's Pinot Noir Rosé is a great bottle and so is the Clos du Bois Rosé.

PS: Can one pair Rosé with food?
RI: Rosé is quite possibly the most food friendly variety of wine. Because it takes characteristics from both red (the fruit) and white (the acidity and lighter body) varieties, it's very easy to pair with food. Rosés cross both boundaries and can pair with anything from sushi to roast chicken. Remember Rosés are a great outdoor picnic or party wine. Serve it cool, like you would a white wine.

Summer of Salads: Caesar Salad

partysugar — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 16:00:50 -0700

When I lived in Spain, my Spanish friends were always asking me to make American foods. While I hosted a huge dinner entitled, "The Hamburger Party," when I had smaller gatherings, I always made Caesar salad. With its crisp romaine leaves, crunchy croutons, and creamy, tangy dressing, something about the classic salad is quintessentially American. Although it's found at practically every Italian-American restaurant and salad shop, I rarely order it and prefer to make it at home. A big plate of Caesar salad is an excellent Summer meal that's comforting and delicious. I've been using Martha Stewart's technique for so long that I no longer have to look at the recipe! To check it out, read more.

Caesar Salad
From Martha Stewart

Ingredients

Homemade croutons
2 cloves garlic
4 anchovy fillets
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 large egg yolk
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 heads (10 ounces each) romaine lettuce, outer leaves discarded, inner leaves washed and dried
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese, or 2 1/2 ounces shaved with a vegetable peeler

Directions

Place garlic, anchovy fillets, and salt in a large wooden salad bowl.* Using two dinner forks, mash garlic and anchovies into a paste.
Using one fork, whisk in pepper, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, and egg yolk.
Using the fork, whisk in the olive oil.
Chop romaine leaves into 1- to 1 1/2-inch pieces. Add croutons, romaine, and cheese to the bowl, and toss well. If you wish, grate extra cheese over the top. Serve immediately. To make a version of this dressing that you can store, simply mince garlic and anchovies, and place with remaining ingredients in a jar. Screw the lid on the jar tightly, and shake to combine. Shake the jar before each use. Store, refrigerated, for up to 4 days.

Serves 4 to 6.

*If you don't have a wooden bowl you can do this on a cutting board or with a mortar and pestle.

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The War of the Rosés Continues

YumSugar — Thu, 28 May 2009 14:00:19 -0700

The battle between Europe's rosé wine producers and the European Union remains far from over. To oppose the EU's vote next month to allow rosé wine to be made by mixing red and white wines, rosé producers from France led the fight for a veto, in conjunction with other producers from neighboring countries.

France, which reported a 10 percent drop in wine sales this year, has joined forces with winemakers from Italy and Spain to oppose the legislation, to be voted on June 19. The trio represents the world's top three winemaking countries. "If the proposal goes forward, it will be the death of the sector," said Xavier de Volontat, president of France's General Association of Wine Production.

Rosé makers have the backing of French, Italian, and Greek governments, but to stand any chance of successfully blocking the vote, would also require the support of German and Spanish governments. Otherwise, the EU has proposed a compromise wherein old-method rosés would be labeled "traditional rosé." Since I'm against this legislation, it's my hope that other European countries come around. Where do you stand on this issue?

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Burger King Apologizes For Controversial Commercial

YumSugar — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 09:00:21 -0700

Burger King announced yesterday that it was revising controversial ads for its Texican Whopper in England and Spain after Mexico's ambassador spoke out against the campaign, calling it offensive. The commercials promoted the Europe-only Texican Whopper, a burger with chili con carne, jalapeños, onion, lettuce, a wheat bun, and Cajun mayonnaise. They featured an American cowboy and a pocket-sized wrestler wearing a cape that resembles the Mexican flag. Jorge Zermeno, the Mexican ambassador to Spain, called the chain's ads damaging to the country's image and its flag.

In a letter to Burger King's Spanish division, Zermeno asked that the commercials be removed from the air because they "improperly used the stereotyped image of a Mexican.” In response, the burger chain released a statement saying it was revamping its campaign: "The revised campaign will focuses solely on the Texican Whopper sandwich and will not feature any characters or the use of the Mexican flag. The revised campaign will be on air and in restaurants as soon as commercially possible.”

I don't find this commercial shocking or surprising, given Burger King's track record of eyebrow raising advertisements, from the recent Sir Mix-a-Lot spot to last year's Whopper Virgins. After watching the video below, tell me: Do you think Burger King made the right move?

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Say Cheese! Manchego Pizza With Chorizo and Shrimp

partysugar — Thu, 05 Mar 2009 09:00:06 -0800

My obsession with all things Spanish is no secret. From José Andrés to Crianza to paella, if it's Spanish, I love it! This affection includes manchego, Spain's most famous cheese. Manchego cheese is protected by a Denominación de Origen, meaning it can only be made from sheep that graze in the La Mancha region of Spain. The whole sheep's milk cheese must also be aged in natural caves for a minimum of two months.

Depending on how long it's aged, the flavor can range from mild to sharp. Manchego comes in a round shape and is cut into chunky wedges. The inedible rind gets its pattern from the manufacturing process that involves wrapping the cheese in sheets of a special woven grass. Manchego tastes creamy and slightly salty. Learn how to use the versatile Spanish cheese and check out the recipe for this scrumptious pizza when you read more.

For a simple snack, pair manchego slices with crackers, olives, and jamon Serrano. Shave on salads and roasted vegetables, or as Yum suggested yesterday, enjoy in a turkey sandwich with pear butter. Manchego is also a great cheese for melting. It can be used in quesadillas, grilled cheese sandwiches, or in my case, on pizza!

Although there only four ingredients in this pizza, the flavors combine sensationally.

The tangy manchego complements the bitterness of the escarole and the spiciness of the chorizo. The shrimp is an exciting addition. I definitely plan on making this tasty pie again.

Manchego Pizza With Chorizo and Shrimp
Modified from Food and Wine

Ingredients

1 large ball of refrigerated pizza dough
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 head escarole, cut into 1-inch pieces (4 cups)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
6 ounces Manchego cheese, shredded (2 cups)
1/2 pound medium shrimp-shelled, deveined and halved lengthwise
1 1/2 ounces firm chorizo, thinly sliced

Directions

Preheat the oven to 500°F. If you have one, set your pizza stone on the bottom of the oven to heat for at least 30 minutes.
On a floured work surface, divide the dough in half and roll each half into a ball. Roll out 1 disk of dough to an 11-inch round. Transfer to a floured pizza peel or other baking sheet.

Prepare the toppings: In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat until golden, about 1 minute. Add the escarole and cook, tossing, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Lightly brush the edge of the dough with olive oil. Scatter half of the Manchego over the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border at the edge, then top with half of the shrimp, chorizo and escarole.

Slide the pizza onto the hot stone (or baking sheet) and bake for 10-15 minutes, or until the crust is browned on the bottom, the shrimp is cooked through and the other toppings are sizzling. Cut the pizza into wedges and serve immediately. Repeat with the remaining dough and toppings.

Serves 4.*

*When I made this pizza, I halved the recipe.

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