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Definition: Speck

YumSugar — Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:15:00 -0700

An Italian cured, smoked meat native to the Alto Adige, a region that straddles Northern Italy and Southern Austria. To make speck, a boned pork leg is cured in salt, and spices like laurel and juniper, then intermittently slow-smoked, using pine or juniper wood for several months.

Deep red in color with heavily marbled traces of fat, speck is served thinly sliced as an appetizer, or used in to flavor cooked dishes.

Note that speck from Alto Adige or Tyrol, which enjoys a protected designation of origin, should not be confused with the German usage of the word, which refers to lard.

Source: Flickr User dags1974

Burning Question: Are Salumi & Charcuterie the Same Thing?

YumSugar — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 04:30:47 -0700

With cured meats making a comeback, it's common to see charcuterie and salumi platters on restaurant menus across the country. But are charcuterie and salumi the same thing? What about salumi and salami?

While charcuterie and salumi share many similarities - both are cured meats, and both maximize the use of every part of the animal - they're not the same thing. Charcuterie, a French term, typically refers to cooked meats such as pâtés. The Italian equivalent of charcuterie is referred to as affettati, while salumi generally refers to salted and dry-cured meats. Salame (plural is salami) is a cured sausage made from ground pork, and is a type of salumi.

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Taste Test: Nduja, Boccalone's Spreadable Salame

YumSugar — Thu, 28 May 2009 06:50:36 -0700

I've long been a fan of local talent Chris Cosentino and his offal-inspired Italian restaurant, Incanto. So when news, well, spread last month that Cosentino's salumeria Boccalone Artisan Meats was debuting the first spreadable salame - Nduja, as it's called - to be produced in the States, I knew I had to get my hands on some right away. Did the salumi live up to all its wonderment? Find out when you read more.

Nduja is nothing new - in fact, it's one of the better-known specialties that comes from the southernmost Italian region of Calabria. Pronounced "en-doo-ya," this delicacy takes its name from the French word andouille, which means "sausage." Made of pork meat, pork fat, salt, and copious amounts of red pepper, nduja is extremely spicy - and, for that reason, considered by many to be an aphrodisiac.

I picked up some spreadable salame at the Boccalone boutique in the Ferry Building Marketplace, but the Oakland-based company also carries most of its products online, including the nduja ($24 for two sausages). Despite my penchant for all things spicy, the nduja, which had a texture slightly firmer than that of liverwurst, was shockingly fiery on the tongue. In addition to possessing the vibrant flavor of Calabrian chili peppers, the burnt-orange-hued meat spread also had a robust porkiness and a hint of aromatic bitterness from the addition of orange rind. The high fat content made for a creamy, smooth texture that was a great foil to crispy water crackers or toasted, grilled bread.

Given all its press, I wondered if nduja would be merely a novelty, but a taste test proved me wrong. With its piquant, highly seasoned flavor, this spreadable delight isn't for everybody, but for those who appreciate spice, it's a worthwhile endeavor. Does spreadable salame sound like something you would try?

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Burning Question: How Does Pancetta Differ From Prosciutto?

YumSugar — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 03:00:45 -0700

Aïda Mollenkamp prefers it to prosciutto, and PartySugar loves it wrapped around her peaches. But what exactly is pancetta?

Referred to as "Italian bacon," pancetta is an Italian charcuterie selection made from salt-cured, aged pork belly. It is not smoked like American bacon, so it has a mellower flavor and higher amount of moisture.

Unlike prosciutto - cured, Italian ham that is made from the hind leg of the pig and is often served thinly sliced and uncooked - pancetta is made from pig's belly, so it is higher in fat content. It is often cooked so its fat can be rendered to add depth to sauces, pastas, roasts, and sautés.

There are many gourmet varieties of pancetta (you can even make it yourself) but don't look for any Italian versions. They are banned from being imported into the United States. Which do you prefer? Pancetta or prosciutto?

Source

Would You Eat This Charcuterie Plate?

YumSugar — Wed, 02 Jul 2008 16:15:08 -0700

One of the hottest new restaurants in town is becoming well known for its charcuterie plate. The last time I was there I ended up with the plate in the photo. I loved every bit of it, but my friend was a bit squeamish about the white proscuitto on the left. It looked too fatty and she refused to eat it. Her loss was definitely my gain, and I was able to enjoy all of the porky goodness. What do you think, would you have eaten it?

Definition: Salumi

partysugar — Fri, 26 Jan 2007 12:21:12 -0800

Salumi
Not to be confused with salami, salumi is the Italian term that is becoming more and more popular in American restaurants and kitchens. It refers to all Italian pork deli meat products: salt-cured meats, salami, salsiccia, prosciutto, bresaola, ham, prosciutto, mortadella, etc. In Italy a salumeria is a shop where salumi are sold.

Happy Hour: Collalbrigo Prosecco Brut

partysugar — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 16:15:31 -0800

Looking for a effervescent bubbly to kick-start your Thanksgiving festivities? Well you'll find it in this lovely Italian Prosecco by Collalbrigo.

With its straw color, delicate bubbles, and apple-pear aroma, it's a refreshingly easy sipper. Its smooth, light intensity is sure to be a crowd-pleaser at your party. At $10.99 it's an affordable wine that won't break the bank.

Grown on a hilltop in northern Italy where noble Venetians have produced wine for thousands of years, serve this fabulous bubbly with oysters, salumi, or crostini.

Fast & Easy Dinner: Antipasto Salad

partysugar — Wed, 06 Aug 2008 06:45:42 -0700

Packed with cheese, olives, and salumi, an antipasto platter is one of my favorite Italian appetizers. So imagine how excited I was when I discovered this recipe for an antipasto salad!!

Fresh balls of mozzarella mingle with salami, olives, and pepperoncini in this hearty, crunchy salad. Be sure to serve it with a chunk of ciabatta to sop up the vinegary dressing. A cold Italian white is also a lovely companion to this delicious dish.

For the recipe, read more.

Antipasto Salad
From Food and Wine magazine

Ingredients

3 tablespoons green-olive tapenade from a jar
1/4 cup peperoncini-stemmed, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups bocconcini (about 9 ounces)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small head of iceberg lettuce, halved, cored and finely shredded (4 cups)
6 ounces thinly sliced Genoa salami, cut into thin strips (1 1/2 cups)
6 small basil leaves
1/2 cup green olives, such as Lucques or Picholine

Directions

In a medium bowl, mix the green-olive tapenade with the peperoncini and 1/4 cup of the oil. Add the bocconcini and toss.
In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice with the vinegar, garlic and oregano. Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and season the dressing with salt and pepper.
In a large bowl, combine the shredded lettuce and salami. Add the marinated bocconcini and half of the dressing and toss well.
Transfer the antipasto salad to a large platter. Top with the basil and olives.
Drizzle the remaining dressing around the salad and serve at once.

Serves 8.

Make ahead: the recipe can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated overnight.

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Come Party With Me: Summer Solstice - Menu

partysugar — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 07:45:35 -0700

Fresh Italian flavors inspire my Summer solstice dinner party menu. To maximize time spent with guests, all of the food can be made in advance or cooked outdoors on the grill. A buffet of salumi, flatbreads, olives, and store bought spreads will await my guests.

When sliced into triangles grilled mozzarella panini are delightful appetizers. Chicken cooked under a brick is crispy yet succulent. Classic panzanella and balsamic potato salad are delicious served on the side. If these recipes sound tasty, get them now when you read more.

Mozzarella Panini
From Gourmet magazine

Ingredients

12 slices firm white sandwich bread
1/4 cup drained bottled capers, chopped
6 oz fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices, at room temperature
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil

Directions

Divide capers among 12 bread slices and spread evenly.
Divide mozzarella among 6 slices and sprinkle with pepper to taste. Make into 6 sandwiches, then cut off and discard crusts to form 3-inch squares.
Coat sandwiches with flour, knocking off excess.
Beat together eggs, milk, and a pinch each of salt and pepper in another small shallow bowl.
Heat 1/2 tablespoon butter with 1 tablespoon oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides.
Meanwhile, coat 3 sandwiches, 1 at a time, with egg mixture. Fry, turning over once, until golden brown, about 5 minutes, then drain on paper towels. Coat and fry remaining 3 sandwiches in same manner.
Cut sandwiches into quarters and serve immediately.

Makes 24 hors d'oeuvres.

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Northern Italian-Style Chicken Under a Brick
From Emeril Lagasse

Ingredients

1 cup olive oil
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon freshly chopped rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon freshly chopped thyme leaves
1 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 whole chicken, 3 to 3 1/2 pounds
2 teaspoons Essence, recipe follows
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
2 bricks, wrapped in aluminum foil

Directions

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F and preheat grill to medium-low.
In a small mixing bowl, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, lemon zest, rosemary, thyme, parsley, kosher salt, and crushed red pepper. Mix to combine and set aside.
Place the chicken on a cutting board. With a boning knife and/or poultry scissors, cut along both sides of the backbone and remove. Place the chicken skin side down on a clean work surface and, using a paring or small boning knife, cut underneath and around the breast bone on both sides, cutting the cartilage away from the flesh so that you can work your fingers underneath the bone, and then carefully remove the breast bone. The chicken should lay flat like an open book. Tuck the wing tips behind the joint of the wing that meets the breast. Cut small tips in the skin that hangs beneath the thighs and tuck the tips of the drumstick bones inside.
Place in a 9 by 13-inch, nonreactive baking dish and add the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 6 hours, turning occasionally to evenly coat.
Preheat the bricks for 20 minutes.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and season on both sides with the Essence, salt, and pepper. Place the chicken, skin side down, on the grill. Place 2 bricks on top of the chicken to cover completely and flatten. Cook until the skin side has nice grill marks, about 20 minutes. Remove the bricks and turn the chicken so that it is skin side up. Cook on the second side for about 15 minutes longer, or until juices run clear and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the deep portion of the thigh registers 165 degrees F.
Remove the chicken from the grill, place on a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Cut the chicken into quarters and serve immediately.

Serves 6-8.

Emeril's Essence Seasoning

2 1/2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly.

Makes 2/3 cup.

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Panzanella
From Martha Stewart

Ingredients

1 garlic clove
2 pounds ripe beefsteak tomatoes, cored and cut into large chunks
1 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
5 one-inch-thick slices day-old Tuscan-style bread
4 (about 12 ounces) Kirby cucumbers, peeled and sliced
1 cup packed fresh basil leaves

Directions

Place garlic on a cutting board; hit it with the side of a large knife to break it open a bit.
Place tomatoes, onion, and garlic in a large nonreactive bowl. Drizzle oil and vinegar over the vegetable mixture; season with salt and pepper. Toss; let stand, covered, in a cool place, for 1 hour or more.
Place bread on a hot grill or under a heated broiler; toast until both sides are slightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat, rub lightly with garlic if desired; tear bread into bite-size chunks. When ready to serve, add cucumbers, basil, and bread to tomatoes.
Toss to coat bread thoroughly with the marinating liquid. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, and remove garlic clove.

Serves 6.

Variations: Try adding bocconcini (cubed fresh mozzarella), roasted bell peppers, sliced fresh fennel, or capers. Experiment using other seasonal vegetables.

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Balsamic Potato and Green Bean Salad
From Everyday With Rachael Ray magazine

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds small new potatoes
Salt
10 ounces green beans, trimmed and halved crosswise
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 scallions, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, plus whole sprigs for garnish

Directions

In a large saucepan, place the potatoes, 2 teaspoons salt and enough water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the green beans and cook for 3 minutes. Drain and let stand.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, mustard, pepper and 1 teaspoon salt. Whisk in the olive oil until combined.
Toss the potatoes and beans with the dressing to coat. Using a fork, mash several potatoes. Toss in the scallions and thyme. Season with more salt and pepper to taste and top with thyme sprigs. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Serves 8.

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Come Party With Me: Oscars Viewing - Menu

partysugar — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:28:31 -0800

Instead of serving a sit down dinner at your Oscars viewing party, offer a smörgåsbord of snacks like Wolfgang Puck does at the Governors Ball. Provide a hearty mix of homemade and store bought appetizers. Have a cheese plate with several different types of cheese, crackers, flatbreads, crostini, and grapes. A platter of salumi - salami, proscuitto, chorizo, etc. - with olives compliments the assortment of cheeses. Order a couple of sushi platters from your favorite sushi restaurant.

Supplement these grocery store goodies with easy to make dishes: smoked salmon pizza, blue cheese popcorn, smoky chipotle hummus, and gingery chicken satay with peanut sauce. For the recipes, please read more.

Smoked Salmon Pizza
From Everyday with Rachael Ray magazine

Two 12-inch store-bought partially baked pizza crusts
Extra-virgin olive oil
Pepper
8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 cup finely chopped shallots
1/4 cup drained capers
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Juice of 1/2 lemon
3/4 pound sliced smoked salmon

Preheat the oven to 450°.
Drizzle the crusts with olive oil, season with pepper and bake for 10 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the cream cheese, shallots, 2 tablespoons capers, 1 tablespoon dill and the lemon juice.
Spread the cream cheese mixture on the crusts. Top with the smoked salmon, remaining 2 tablespoons capers and 1 tablespoon dill. Cut into wedges.

Serves 6.

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Blue Cheese Popcorn
From Emeril Lagasse

3 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
1/3 cup white popping corn
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 (1/3 pound) piece assertive blue cheese, frozen
1/2 cup coarsely chopped lightly toasted walnuts
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

In a large, partially covered saucepan, heat the oil and 1 kernel of popcorn until hot enough to make the corn pop. Add the remaining popcorn and cook, partially covered, shaking until all the corn is popped.
Transfer the popcorn to a large mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper. While popcorn is hot, grate the blue cheese over the popcorn. Add the walnuts and chives and toss until evenly coated. Serve immediately.

Makes 10 cups.

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Smoky Chipotle Hummus
From Bon Appetit magazine

2 15-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons tahini (sesame seed paste)*
3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
21/2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chilies**
1 large garlic clove, minced
11/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 4-ounce jar sliced pimientos in oil, drained
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 6-ounce packages roasted-garlic bagel chips

Reserve 3 tablespoons garbanzo beans for garnish.
Blend remaining garbanzo beans and next 7 ingredients in processor until smooth.
Add pimientos; process, using on/off turns, until pimientos are coarsely chopped.
Transfer hummus to medium bowl. Stir in cilantro. Season hummus to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with reserved garbanzo beans. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.) Accompany with bagel chips.

Serves 20.

*Sold at Middle Eastern markets, natural foods stores and some supermarkets.
**Chipotle chilies canned in a spicy tomato sauce, sometimes called adobo, are available at Latin American markets, specialty foods stores and some supermarkets.

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Gingery Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce
From Food and Wine magazine

4 large shallots
4 large garlic cloves
2 stalks of lemongrass, bottom 6 inches only, outer leaves peeled, inner stalk cut into 1-inch pieces
2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
2 tablespoon Asian fish sauce
2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, sliced lengthwise 1 inch thick
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1/2 cup smooth peanut butter
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Light a grill.
In a mini food processor, combine the shallots, garlic, lemongrass, chiles, ginger, soy sauce, coriander and ground pepper. Add 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar and 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce and process to a fine paste. Transfer half of the seasoning paste to a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat.
Thread the chicken strips onto skewers. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the oil and let stand for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a medium saucepan. Add the remaining seasoning paste and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add the coconut milk and bring to a boil, stirring. Whisk in the peanut butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon each of brown sugar and fish sauce and bring to a simmer. Transfer the sauce to a blender, add the lime juice and puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl.
Grill the chicken skewers over a hot fire until lightly charred and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter or bowl and sprinkle with the cilantro. Serve with the peanut sauce.

Serves 6.

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