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Talking Food With Cookbook Authority Sheila Lukins

YumSugar — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 16:15:00 -0800

Sheila Lukins is one of America's most prolific cookbook authors. More than 25 years ago, she published The Silver Palate Cookbook, which introduced the boomer generation to upscale at-home cuisine. In addition to publishing other blockbuster cookbooks, Lukins has edited the food pages of Parade magazine for over 20 years.

I had a chance to enjoy breakfast with Sheila on a sunny Saturday morning, while she was on tour for Ten, her latest (and seventh!) cookbook. Over coffee, she offered her best tips for home cooks, and talked about the ever-so-controversial seasonality issue. To see more of what she had to say, read more.

YumSugar: Why did you come out with Ten?
Sheila Lukins: My editor [Peter Workman], and I were talking about all the foods we craved. Everybody really has the same favorite foods; we all love noodles, ribs, Italian food. He said, there's a book in that - you could have 10 recipes for each of your favorite foods.

YS: You've got whole chapters dedicated to tomatoes, corn, asparagus. Should home cooks use seasonal vegetables year-round?
SL: I believe in eating seasonally; there's nothing like going to the farmers market and getting Silver Queen corn, but you get certain things year-round these days. It's not like I want to eat hard or yellow strawberries, but . . . certain tomatoes, let them ripen on the counter, and they're okay. I'm not going to say I'm never going to eat [an out-of-season] tomato.

YS: Why do you think your books resonate with people?
SL: The recipes are so clearly written; they are so specific. I make up every recipe, first with a yellow pad at the stove, at home, in my own kitchen - and they work. We go over it and over it and over it. You can't do bad recipes, and then have people spend money on ingredients and get a recipe that doesn't work well. That's so horrible.

YS: What were some of your most memorable moments in the kitchen?
SL: I got almost electrocuted by an eggplant. I wrapped it in aluminum foil and was baking it so I could make baba ghanoush. I opened the foil and got a horrible shock!

YS: What's your advice for the home cook?
SL: Find a couple things you enjoy making. Try them ahead of time, then make them when you're having people over. Don't feel like you have to make every dish in a cookbook. Most people don't; they have their favorites. Read recipes through, and be sure you have your ingredients. Make sure you check your cabinets, and keep things in stock so you don't have to keep shopping from scratch every time you want to cook.

YS: Where are your favorite places to eat out?
SL: In New York, I used to go downtown a lot, but now I go a lot less because there are such good places on the Upper West Side. I love Tom Valenti and his restaurants - that would be Ouest, and a new one, West Branch. Craft is very good for special occasions. Love Balthazar. I always get Chinese food from Shun Lee West, and I get pizza from Patsy's because they deliver, and it's near my house. Because I've lived on the Upper West Side, these are places that are very convenient to me, and also very delicious. We used to have no good food on the Upper West Side. Daniel Boulud just opened Bar Boulud, and I go there a lot.

Photo Courtesy of Francesco Scavullo

Delve Into This Sticky Toffee Pudding

YumSugar — Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:00:52 -0800

On Tuesday, I revealed what Barack Obama would be eating for his last supper before the big day. Many of you were impressed by the elegant-sounding menu - but in particular, you were dreaming of the dessert, a warm sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream.

Our stars must be aligned: for my favorite uncle's birthday last weekend, I made this dream of a cake from a recipe in Sheila Lukins's stellar new book, Ten. In case you didn't know, sticky toffee pudding isn't actually a pudding. Rather, it's a traditional British dessert that's made with date-flavored sponge cake and drenched in a toffee sauce. With its moist cake and gooey, syrupy caramelized sauce, this dessert is bound to catch on in the United States. To make this simple cake for yourself, read more.

Sticky Toffee Date Cake
From Ten by Sheila Lukins

Ingredients

Cake:
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing the pan
8 ounces pitted dried dates, chopped
1 teaspoon baking soda
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 tablespoons baking powder
Sauce:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1 cup (packed) light or dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, for serving

Directions

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter the bottom and the sides of a 9-inch round cake pan. Set the pan aside.
Place the chopped dates in a small saucepan, add 1 cup water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in the baking soda (the mixture will bubble up slightly). Set the pan aside to cool.
Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until the mixture is light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. With the mixer on low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the vanilla and mix to combine.
Add the flour and salt, and mix to combine. Stir in the dates, including any liquid, and then stir in the baking powder.
Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan, and bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Do not overbake or the cake will be dry.
Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then remove the cake from the pan, and place it on a plate.
While the cake is cooking, prepare the sauce: Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small saucepan. Place the pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring, until the butter has melted and the sauce is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Raise the heat slightly, and simmer until the sauce thickens slightly, 3 minutes. Let the sauce cool for about 5 minutes.
Using a skewer, poke holes all over the surface of the cake. Pour the sauce over the cake while both are still warm.
Serve the cake warm, with ice cream or whipped cream on top.

Serves 8.

Note: This cake can be frozen and reheated. To freeze cake, cool it completely, cut into wedges, and freeze each well-wrapped wedge for up to 2 months. A slice can be thawed and reheated. Reheat in a 350ºF oven for 10 minutes.

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Must-Read: Ten

YumSugar — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 14:00:54 -0800

Sheila Lukins, food editor for Parade magazine and author of the The New Basics and The Silver Palate Cookbook, is known for her all-encompassing books, which are packed with reliable recipes for traditional American fare. Her seventh recipe collection, entitled Ten: All the Foods We Love and Ten Recipes For Each ($19.95), combines cooking expertise with an unconventional format: 32 chapters on her favorite foods, with 10 recipes for each. See what I thought of it when you read more.

Pros:

The contemporary format is a refreshing departure from the organization of an ordinary cookbook.
There's an impressive collection of recipes for each category. Love roasted chicken? You'll find 10 recipes, side by side in the same book, for you to compare and contrast.
Each chapter contains a helpful introduction, and Lukins includes a background summary for every single recipe in the book.
Much like her other cookbooks, Ten contains a wide repertoire of dishes from cocktails to sorbets.

Cons:

Recipes, which range from simple to complex, aren't ideal for the beginner cook.
If you're a visual cook, you'll get little help here, as there are few pictures.
The book is paperback, which means that it will be subject to lots of wear and tear if you cook with it frequently.

Recipes: The recipes are arranged into 32 categories. Here are some I hope to experiment with:

Cocktails: Honeydew Daiquiri, Floradora
Spreads, Dips, and Finger Foods: Sugar-and-Spice Nuts, Shrimp Toasts
Small Plates: Celeri Rémoulade, Salmon Caviar-Stuffed Eggs
Chops: Lamb Loin with Orange Béarnaise, Rack of Veal
Chicken - Roasted and Baked: Herb-Roasted Chicken, Zuni Roast Chicken
Lobster Anytime: Lobster Fra Diavolo, Creamy Lobster Stew
Leafy Salads: Beet and Endive Salad, Frisée and Apple Salad
Corn: Summer Corn Chowder, Corn and Crabmeat Salad
Ice Cream and Sorbets: Bill Gross's Burnt Orange Ice Cream, Green Apple Sorbet

Imagery: The book is short on images, but the select few in the beginning are enough to inspire.

Overall Rating: If you're a more experienced cook and a fan of Sheila's recipes, you're bound to enjoy this collection of recipes. To get a better preview of the book's format, click on the gallery below.

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Will You Watch Melissa d'Arabian's New Show?

YumSugar — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 09:45:17 -0700

From the beginning of The Next Food Network Star, mother of four Melissa d'Arabian seemed to be an unlikely candidate. She proved everyone wrong last week when she took the title on the season finale of the series.

Now she has her very own show, Ten Dollar Dinners With Melissa d'Arabian (a notable departure from her Kitchen Survival Guide pilot shown on the finale). It premieres on the Food Network this Sunday at 12:30 p.m. Will you be checking it out?

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Ten Food Tees Your Friends Will Covet

YumSugar — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:11:33 -0800

From brown paper bags, to killer cupcakes, there are a ton of great food-related tees out there. I've scoured the shops to find ten that will make your friends ask, "Where did you get that shirt?!" Ready to check them out? Hit the "Start Slideshow" at the button below!

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Top Chef Vegas: Episode 10

partysugar — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 00:30:24 -0700

Things are winding down on the sixth season of Top Chef Vegas. After last night's episode only six cheftestants remain. Instead of a guest judge that's a chef, the actress Natalie Portman decides the fate of the competitors. It was all about vegetarian food. Did you watch? Let's discuss it after the break.

Hottest Men On Food Network

YumSugar — Thu, 16 Aug 2007 08:01:31 -0700

The other day Stuff Magazine created their list of the top ten hottest women of Food Network. Many of you thought their list wasn't quite right, but the rest of you thought we should come up with our own list of the top ten hottest men of Food Network. When I mentioned this idea to PartySugar, she quickly agreed and handed over her list. After a little bit of tweaking (I really wanted Alton higher on the list!), we finally settled on our top 10.

#10 - Robert Irvine
The host of Dinner: Impossible always manages to whip up a meal while under pressure. His fast thinking ways, body builder physique and British accent have garnered him a spot on our list.

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#9 Emeril Lagasse
Despite his success and his "BAM"itude, Emeril is devoted to great food and fresh ingredients. His toothpaste ads may have pushed him down a few notches, but his passion for getting everyone in the kitchen solidifies his place on this list.

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#8 Duff Goldman
In addition to owning and operating Charm City Cakes, he's also a sculptor, artist and musician. Besides, any man that can cook up fancy wedding cakes has earned a place on this list.

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#7 Bobby Flay
Bobby's bad-boy attitude (remember when he stood on the cutting board during Iron Chef?), charm and grill skills makes him a rock-solid addition to this top ten list.

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For the rest of the list, read more

#6 Michael Chiarello
If you're not careful, Chiarello will charm your socks off. His local food loving, grape growing and down-to-earth self (not to mention his adorable smile) is enough to make any gal swoon.

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#5 Mario Batali
Mario is a wonderful educator whose passion oozes out of every pore. His cuddly teddy bear looks and the fact that he hob knobs with celebrities are just added bonuses. Oh and I know you all don't agree with me, but I love the fact that he wears shorts and bright orange crocs.

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#4 Dave Lieberman
With his boyishly good looks and culinary talent, Mr. Lieberman is often called "America's Naked Chef." Oh and any man that loves a good deal earns bonus points in my book.

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#3 Alton Brown
If I had my way, Alton would've been the top of the list, however I know his know-it-all dorky attitude isn't for everyone. Personally I love how everything in his kitchen can be explained with props and that I always feel smarter after hanging out with him. Oh and he broke his collarbone all in the name of good eats, how hot is that?!

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#2 The Deen Brothers
Two for the price of one! The dynamic duo known as Bobby and Jamie Deen travel around the country hoping to educate viewers on unique and interesting products. Their frat-boy looks and Southern charm make them memorable, and their soft cuddly insides and tough exterior make them just like their mama's deep fried butter balls!

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#1 Tyler Florence
I think that almost every lady watching Food Network has had a mini-crush on Tyler at some point in time. Whether he's boiling water, or making a delicious Sunday roast, Tyler's boy-next door looks and fantastic personality just light up the screen. His perspective in the kitchen is amazing - he knows what people want to eat and how to make them want to make it. For that he earns the number one spot on our list!

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Mac Attack! Three-Cheese Mini Macs

partysugar — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 12:50:10 -0700

Looking for something orange to serve at your Halloween bash on Saturday? Why not make these adorable and delicious macaroni and cheese bites?! This mac gets its vibrant hue from cheddar and American cheeses.

The technique is like a typical macaroni and cheese recipe, but the ratio of cheese to liquid is different. There's more cheese and less milk resulting in a dense, easily-compactable pasta with thick sauce.

Although the recipe calls for five minutes of cool time, I found that these macs, which are cooked in mini muffin pans, need about ten minutes to set. If you try to get them out of the pan too early, the pasta won't hold its shape and instead of mac and cheese minis, you'll just have a mac and cheese mess. To look at the recipe, keep reading.

Let's Dish: What's Your Favorite Cookbook of All Time?

YumSugar — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 06:50:01 -0700

Since I just quizzed your knowledge of classic cooking works, I figured I'd go full circle: Whether it's battered and old or trendy and new, I'm curious to know what your most beloved kitchen book is. I have so many, it's hard to pick, but among them, I love the Bon Appétit Cookbook for its exhaustive collection of American recipes, and Ten by Sheila Lukins for its thoroughly tested instructions, as well as On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee. Even though the last isn't technically a cookbook, it's a great resource for understanding the chemical interactions between food ingredients, and the science behind various cooking methods.

What are your favorite cookbooks?

Yummy Links: From Pumpkin Seeds to Carbonara

partysugar — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 09:15:35 -0700

Ten ways to spice up pumpkin seeds.- Chow
Kale and bacon make one delicious combination. - The Epi Log
Josh Ozersky questions the patriotism of the humble hamburger. - Vanity Fair
Fabio Viviani's latest gig? Pizza delivery man. - Grub Street NY
Cook's Illustrated's editor, Christopher Kimball, is ready to wage war on the blogosphere. - Eat Me Daily
The Bocuse d'Or USA is now searching for its next national team. - Eater
Jazz up classic pasta carbonara with peas and ricotta. - Serious Eats