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Consumers Warm Up to Humanely Raised Veal

YumSugar — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:50:04 -0700

While the vegetarian trend has continued to rise, a meat movement is also gaining popularity. The latest subject in sustainable agriculture? Pasture-raised veal. Compared to conventionally raised veal, rose veal, as it's been dubbed, is leaner, with a blush color.

Eating veal has long been an animal-welfare issue, with opponents pointing to calves confined in stalls so tiny that livestock are unable to move. But producers of pasture-raised veal argue that the meat comes from hormone- and antibiotic-free calves who drink their mother's milk, consume pasture grass, and freely roam pastures.

Animal-rights activists are against the slaughter of young animals who have strong maternal bonds - yet according to veal proponents, calves are the same age as lamb and older than pigs when they're slaughtered. Where do you stand? Would you be more likely to eat pasture raised veal?

Definition: Saltimbocca

YumSugar — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 13:00:10 -0800

Saltimbocca
Popular in Italy and especially Rome, saltimbocca is a dish made traditionally with veal cutlets but sometimes with chicken or pork. The meat is usually pounded thin and wrapped in or topped by prosciutto and sage leaves.

Often cooked in white wine and butter or oil, the veal is then seasoned with its own sauce and sometimes capers. Saltimbocca means "jumps in the mouth" in Italian.

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Let's Dish: What Are Your Culinary New Year's Resolutions?

YumSugar — Thu, 01 Jan 2009 05:30:34 -0800

Every January, we are filled with renewed determination to be more organized, stop smoking, or lose weight. While I make plenty of common New Year's resolutions, since food and cooking are such an important part of my life, I make culinary resolutions as well. Whether it's sharpening my knife skills, learning an unknown kitchen technique, or experimenting with exotic cuisines, I always feel like I have something new to learn.

After reading Michael Ruhlman's Elements of Cooking, I've been wanting to make my own veal stock from scratch - a long, drawn-out process that takes more than a day. But the famous author and Next Iron Chef judge has made so many arguments about veal stock adding depth and body to sauce that I simply have to try incorporating it into my dishes.

What kitchen accomplishments are you determined to make in 2009?

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Must-Read: Lobel's Meat Bible

YumSugar — Thu, 25 Jun 2009 14:00:03 -0700

I have a confession to make. Although a good number of you are vegetarians, and even more of you eat less meat now that we're in a recession, I still crave meat on a regular basis - whether it's a lamb chop, slice of jamon Iberico, or charcuterie. So when I received a copy of Lobel's Meat Bible ($40), a new book by revered New York butcher brothers Stanley, Evan, Mark, and David Lobel, I couldn't wait to check it out. See what I thought of it when you read more

Must Read: It's About Time

partysugar — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 10:15:09 -0800

If you live in the Boston area you may be familiar with Chef Michael Schlow.
A James Beard Award-winning chef, Schlow owns three wildly successful restaurants: Radius, Via Matta, and Great Bay. Although I've never dined at one of Schlow's establishments, I recently got my hands on his cookbook, It's About Time ($24.71).

Different from most cookbooks, this tome is not separated into courses. Instead each section represents a specific time - be it a cooking time (Time to Eat and Now) or a time in one's life (Time to Celebrate). To find out more about this excellent cookbook, read more.

Pros:

Unlike some cookbooks by restaurant chefs, this publication is totally accessible to the home cook.
There's something for everyone, from the busy mom desperate to feed her kids healthy food fast to the culinary bachelor looking to impress his latest fling with cooking expertise.
You really get to know Michael Schlow as a chef and as a person. In some aspects, this book is autobiographical.
The recipes use common ingredients and feature classic techniques that the home cook will be familiar and comfortable with.

Cons:

The organization of the recipes is hard to follow. The ingredients are listed on the far side of the page and instead of numbering the steps, the instructions are in an easy-to-get lost bulleted list.
Some of the recipes require cooking gadgets - like a mandoline - that most people might not own.

Recipes: There are over 150 recipes that cover every course from appetizers to cocktails to dessert. While the majority are simple, a few are complex with seemingly endless steps. Still, there are plenty that I am interested in making:

Steamed Prince Edward Island mussels with spicy tomato and herb broth
Yukon gold potato soup with shrimp, bacon, and potatoes
Secret agent raspberry bars
Clams in broth
Veal Milanese with arugula, tomato, and red onion salad
The Schlow burger
Jimmy's dancing punch
Homemade ravioli
Individual lemon sabayon tarts

Imagery: The book is filled with pictures, big and small, of the dishes, of the process of cooking an item, and of the ingredients. However, some are in color and others are in black and white; some are centered on the page and others are coarsely chopped out of the book. These inconsistencies aside, the photos are beautiful and mouth-watering.

Overall Rating: This book was a very exciting find, and I look forward to experimenting with Schlow's recipes. While it would not be my first choice for a novice home cook, it would make a great gift for a cookbook collector or foodie who loves recipes.

Must-Read: Ten

YumSugar — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 14:00:54 -0800

Sheila Lukins, food editor for Parade magazine and author of the The New Basics and The Silver Palate Cookbook, is known for her all-encompassing books, which are packed with reliable recipes for traditional American fare. Her seventh recipe collection, entitled Ten: All the Foods We Love and Ten Recipes For Each ($19.95), combines cooking expertise with an unconventional format: 32 chapters on her favorite foods, with 10 recipes for each. See what I thought of it when you read more.

Pros:

The contemporary format is a refreshing departure from the organization of an ordinary cookbook.
There's an impressive collection of recipes for each category. Love roasted chicken? You'll find 10 recipes, side by side in the same book, for you to compare and contrast.
Each chapter contains a helpful introduction, and Lukins includes a background summary for every single recipe in the book.
Much like her other cookbooks, Ten contains a wide repertoire of dishes from cocktails to sorbets.

Cons:

Recipes, which range from simple to complex, aren't ideal for the beginner cook.
If you're a visual cook, you'll get little help here, as there are few pictures.
The book is paperback, which means that it will be subject to lots of wear and tear if you cook with it frequently.

Recipes: The recipes are arranged into 32 categories. Here are some I hope to experiment with:

Cocktails: Honeydew Daiquiri, Floradora
Spreads, Dips, and Finger Foods: Sugar-and-Spice Nuts, Shrimp Toasts
Small Plates: Celeri Rémoulade, Salmon Caviar-Stuffed Eggs
Chops: Lamb Loin with Orange Béarnaise, Rack of Veal
Chicken - Roasted and Baked: Herb-Roasted Chicken, Zuni Roast Chicken
Lobster Anytime: Lobster Fra Diavolo, Creamy Lobster Stew
Leafy Salads: Beet and Endive Salad, Frisée and Apple Salad
Corn: Summer Corn Chowder, Corn and Crabmeat Salad
Ice Cream and Sorbets: Bill Gross's Burnt Orange Ice Cream, Green Apple Sorbet

Imagery: The book is short on images, but the select few in the beginning are enough to inspire.

Overall Rating: If you're a more experienced cook and a fan of Sheila's recipes, you're bound to enjoy this collection of recipes. To get a better preview of the book's format, click on the gallery below.

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Fast & Easy Dinner: Chicken With Prosciutto and Sage

YumSugar — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 08:00:15 -0800

If you shy away from saltimbocca because you don't eat veal, then do yourself a favor and try this twist on the classic Roman dish, which uses chicken in place of beef. The sage and prosciutto fulfill the recipe's promise to "jump in the mouth."

Dredging the chicken in flour creates a delicate, velvety texture, and a wine broth keeps the meat from being too dry. It's a just-salty-enough gourmet flavor that's quick to achieve.

To get the recipe, read more.

Chicken With Prosciutto and Sage
From Everyday Food

Ingredients

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Coarse salt and ground pepper
4 fresh whole sage leaves, plus 4 minced leaves
4 (6 to 8 ounces each) chicken cutlets
4 slices (3 ounces) thinly sliced prosciutto
4 teaspoons olive oil
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup reduced-sodium canned chicken broth
1 tablespoon cold butter

Directions

In a shallow bowl, stir together flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Set aside.
Lay 1 sage leaf lengthwise on each cutlet, then wrap a prosciutto slice around middle of each cutlet, encasing sage. Flatten with the palm of your hand to help prosciutto adhere to the chicken. Dredge cutlets in seasoned flour; tap off excess.
In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 teaspoons oil over medium-high heat. Cook 2 cutlets until golden brown and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Remove cutlets, and keep warm. Repeat with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and 2 cutlets.
Add wine and broth to skillet; cook over high heat until reduced by three-quarters, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool 1 minute. Add butter and minced sage; stir until butter is melted, about 30 seconds. Spoon sauce onto plates; top with cutlets. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

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Animal Rights Proposition Passes in California

YumSugar — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 10:15:24 -0800

Yesterday, California passed the most far-reaching farm animal treatment measure to ever be placed on the ballot.

Proposition 2 passed with an estimated 62 percent of the vote in early returns and will affect 20 million farm animals in California, America's largest agricultural state. It requires farmers to give animals space to turn around, spread their wings, stand up, and lie down.

This ballot measure, which was sponsored by the Humane Society of America, goes into effect in 2015 and will entail, among other things, phasing out gestation crates for breeding pigs and veal cages for calves. Opponents, however, fear that the measure will actually bolster the market for cheaper, out-of-state agriculture where farmers aren't under the same regulations.

Did you vote on this measure? How do you feel about this animal rights victory? Do you think it sets an example for other states?

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Top Chef 3.11 - Snacks on a Plane Recap

YumSugar — Thu, 13 Sep 2007 11:22:06 -0700

Well folks, we are down to the final six cheftestants, and I must say I was slightly shocked by last night's episode. Shocked by who was eliminated, shocked by how mean guest judge Anthony Bourdain was - although I should have been expecting it - and shocked by how many folks overcooked fish. I could go on and on about my shock, but let's just start at the beginning for now.

The episode starts with Padma sneaking into the dorms and rousing the chefs from their slumber. And naturally, she has a surprise! They stagger into the (super swanky) kitchen area and are told they have 20 minutes to make her breakfast with ingredients in the kitchen. No time to change, no time to think, just make. Oh and they're endorsed by Breville's blender, so they might want to use that too.

To find out what happens next, read more

Once the challenge starts, the cheftestants (as Hung said) "scatter like roaches." Truffle oil is falling off the counter, bell peppers are lying on the floor and burners are barely burning. All of the chefs decide to play it a little safe - crepes, French toast, eggs in a nest, etc - and Hung wins the challenge with a well prepared take on steak and eggs and a papaya smoothie. Did I mention that his papaya smoothie was spiked with Grand Marnier? I'm sure it gave him an edge, but the simple combo of blended papaya with milk is fantastic, so I'm sure his would have been fantastic with or without the added bonus.

As winner of the elimination challenge, Hung is presented a copy of Padma's upcoming cookbook and will be able to pick his protein first. However, before they can begin, it's time to pack their bags and head West to Aspen! But oh wait, there's a slight detour and they're going to New York first!

When the cheftestants arrive at the Newark airport, they're ready to head to New York, but are told to check in to their airport hotel and prepare for an elimination challenge the next day. The challenge takes place - hair caps and all - in the kitchen for Continental airlines. They have two hours to prepare business class appropriate meals that will be reheated and served to the judges - including guest judges Anthony Bourdain and Jimmy Canora of Continental's Congress of Chefs - and a fleet of elite flight attendants.

Four of the six chefs opt for fish, Hung takes the fatty Chilean Sea Bass, Brian takes lobster (to go with this gigantic steak), CJ takes halibut and Sara opts for salmon. Casey and Dale take meats, veal and steak respectively. The fishes - except for Hung's - are overcooked and rubbery. Bourdain says he didn't even know what Brian's lobster was and Sara's salmon is awful and inconsistent. In the end Casey walked away the winner with grilled veal medallions and cauliflower gratin.

However it isn't the fish, but side dishes that send folks home. Sara's couscous is considered an afterthought - which she agrees with - and CJ's burnt broccolini is according to Tom, the "worst dish that they've had in three years of the competition." Bourdain backs it up by saying that it looked like they were cleaning Bob Marley's house and found it in the closet. Ouch, harsh words for some sad broccolini.

Unfortunately, it isn't just harsh words that are given to CJ. He is also given the boot. I must say, I was a bit shocked. I honestly thought he would be in the final four. It looks like it must have been a tough decision, I mean Padma is practically in tears as she tells him to go home.

Things to ponder...

Did you think the beginning was staged? Something about it seemed like they re-enacted the scene.
This is probably some sort of sin to ponder, but is Bourdain's mean guy schtick too predictable? Oh and If you haven't read his thoughts on the evening, you really should.
Were you as touched by how sad Padma was, as I was?
Who are you rooting for? I think I'm rooting for Hung, but with my track record that must mean he's going home next week.
Oh and, I don't know about you, but I have to figure out how to fly business class from now on...

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Exercise in Excess: The French Laundry Part 2

YumSugar — Thu, 21 Jun 2007 08:01:18 -0700

Yesterday I walked you through the first part of my extravagant time at the French Laundry, and while everything I posted was definitely tasty, you guys haven't even seen the meat of the story (bad pun intended). Today I'll take you from fish course to beef and all the lovely bits in-between.

After the foie gras, the next course was either Filet of American Red Snapper with Summer Squash, San Marzano Tomato "Fondue," Cuttlefish and Arugula-Castelvetrano Olive Pudding (shown right) or Spanish Mackerel "En Escabeche" with Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm, English Cucumbers, Cilantro Shoots, Haas Avocado "Coulis" and Rangpur Lime "Gastrique" (shown above). I ordered the snapper, while Jimmy ordered the mackerel. When our dishes arrived I was envious of his dish - the presentation was so gorgeous - however after tasting both of them, his fell a little flat and I was certain I picked the winning dish.

To see what's up next (and believe me, the best parts are next),read more

Once the fish was devoured, they presented us with a selection of fresh baked breads. There were some delicious choices, but my favorite was definitely the pretzel bread. [Note to self: get recipe for pretzel bread.]

With the bread out of the way, we moved on to the lobster course, or as the menu said: Lobster Tail "Pochée Au Beurre Doux" with Caramelized Cipollini Onions, Oregon Hazelnuts, Sunchoke Purée and Valrhona Chocolate-Coffee Emulsion. I believe this was my favorite part of the meal, as it was perfectly cooked and paired well with the sauce. Also, whenever anyone asks how my experience was, I immediately tell them about the lobster, so this must've been my favorite part.

After the lobster it was time for either All-Day Braised Kurobuta Pork Belly with Brentwood Corn, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Piquillo Peppers, Fava Beans and "Pimenton Jus" (shown right) or Devil's Gulch Ranch Rabbit Shoulder "Farci Au Ris De Veau" with Jacobsen's Farm La Ratte Potatoes, Lovage, Celery Branch and Apricot Mustard (aka fancy pants rabbit lollipop that my fellow diners wished they ordered instead).

Finally, rounding out the main course, and pushing out my waistline, was the "Chateaubriand" of Nature-Fed Veal with Morel Mushrooms, Green Asparagus, Veal Cheek "Pierogi" and Madeira Sauce. This might actually have been the highlight of the feast. However, at this point I had way too many glasses of wine and far too much brioche to fully enjoy it. In fact, I'm ashamed to say, I actually had to GIVE 1/3 of it to my fellow diners. I also couldn't down all the pierogi, which was a crying shame because they were delicious.

Now wipe up your drool, because after a little breather (seriously, I had to get up for a minute and catch my breath and appetite), we'll hit the cheese & dessert courses tomorrow - so be sure to come back!