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'Wich of the Week: Pork Loin With Figs and Manchego

YumSugar — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 14:30:06 -0700

"The Sentinel has a sandwich with figs on it today!" a coworker alerted me on Tuesday morning. I love figs, and I love sandwiches, so I hightailed it over to the SF sandwich shop founded by local chef Dennis Leary.
This was my third time trying The Sentinel's expensive sandwiches, and though this was my favorite so far, I was still somewhat disappointed. Why? Because I expect a place whose menu changes seasonally to use seasonal ingredients, like figs, but this sandwich was sweetened with fig spread. The menu promised fresh figs! But now for the good news.

'Wich of the Week: Chickpeas and Red Peppers at 'Wichcraft

YumSugar — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 14:00:40 -0700

When it comes to expensive sandwiches, I'm rarely disappointed with 'Wichcraft. Though the creations are somewhat pricey, they're also well-made, and when the ingredients are surprising, I'll totally shell out the cash. Though now that 'Wichcraft's Tom Colicchio and Sisha Ortuzar have released a cookbook, I can save my money and make the recipes at home. Lucky for you, I just got my hands on the cookbook, and I have the recipe for the latest 'wich I grabbed at 'Wichcraft: the reasonably priced ($6.95) chopped chickpeas with roasted red peppers, black olives, lemon confit, and parsley on country bread. Though I love the anchovy and egg sandwich with a consuming passion, I decided to try something new on my last trip, and I wasn't disappointed. To find out how to make it, read more.

The country bread that 'Wichcraft uses is just perfect: crusty on the outside but with a soft, friendly give. I thought "chopped chickpeas" would just mean hummus, so I was pleasantly surprised by this spread, which is really more of a chickpea salad. Though making the chickpeas and lemon confit from scratch sounds like a lot of trouble, it could also be done far in advance, and the sandwich itself is quite simple.

Chopped Chickpeas Sandwich With Roasted Red Peppers, Black Olives, Lemon Confit, and Parsley
From 'Wichcraft: Craft a Sandwich Into a Meal - and a Meal Into a Sandwich

Ingredients

2 cups marinated chickpeas
8 slices country bread
1/2 cup roasted red peppers
4 tablespoons pitted and chopped Nicoise olives
12 slices lemon confit
1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
Freshly ground black pepper

Directions

In a food processor, coarsely chop the marinated chickpeas, until they're spreadable but still chunky. Evenly spread the chickpeas over 4 of the bread slices.
Top with the roasted peppers, olives, lemon confit, and parsley, in that order, and season with pepper.
Top with the remaining 4 slices of bread, cut into halves, and serve.

Makes 4 sandwiches.

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'Wich of the Week: Lobster Club

YumSugar — Wed, 18 Mar 2009 14:00:37 -0700

Ever since I started my adventures in expensive sandwiches, I've been dying to try the ridiculously pricey Lobster Club at Neiman Marcus's Rotunda restaurant in San Francisco. I'll be the first to admit that $28 is way too much to pay for one sandwich, but I rationalized that it's made with lobster and big enough to feed two people. Plus, it's fun to pretend that I belong at this quintessential destination for ladies who lunch.

The Rotunda's lobster club is a double-decker served on toasted brioche, which has a slightly sweet French bakery flavor. The lobster portion was quite generous, so the taste came through even while competing with tomato and bacon. Was it worth $28? Find out and get the recipe when you read more.

I'm not going to say the lobster club wasn't good; I mean, it would be hard to make a lobster club taste bad. But for the price, I was a little disappointed.

As you can see in the photo, the avocado was sort of clumped together rather than distributed evenly, so the sandwich didn't hold together as well as it should have. But the flavors were still outstanding, particularly the lobster meat, and the brioche really stepped it up a notch.

If I were going back for seconds, I think I'd spring for a simple crab roll instead, or save my money and get an old-school diner club sandwich. I am very glad I tried it, but next time I'm at the Rotunda, I'll fill up on the signature warm popovers with strawberry butter.

Lobster Club Sandwich
Inspired by The Rotunda at Neiman Marcus

Ingredients

3 slices of brioche, about 1/2-inch thick, toasted
1/2 an avocado, thinly sliced
1 (8-ounce) lobster tail, cooked and diced
1 small tomato, thinly sliced
1/4 cup baby lettuce leaves
4 slices crisp bacon
1/8 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons finely diced roasted red peppers, undrained

Directions

On a work surface, lay flat one slice of toasted brioche and coat with a thin layer of mayonnaise. Top with avocado slices, followed by lobster.
On second piece of brioche, spread 1 tablespoon of diced peppers on one side, then place that side down atop the lobster.
On the other side of that slice, spread a thin layer of mayo.
Over the mayo, arrange tomato slices, followed by lettuce and bacon.
Spread remaining diced peppers on the third slice of toast, and place atop the bacon.
Cut into quarters, secure each section with toothpicks, and serve.

Makes 1 sandwich.

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Adventures in Expensive Sandwiches: Turkey Meatloaf

YumSugar — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 14:00:28 -0800

It's unusually chilly in San Francisco this week and downright frigid in other parts of the country, which has me craving comfort food: sandwiches, soup, lasagna, turkey, meatloaf, turkey meatloaf . . . So although I dismissed the Sentinel's shoddy construction on my last adventure in expensive sandwiches, I was lured once again to the nearby shop by the thought of turkey meatloaf, snuggled in a hot, buttery roll and slathered with cranberry sauce.This sandwich was both lip-smacking and something of a letdown. To hear what I thought and to get the recipe, read more.

On the one hand, the spicy flavor of the chipotle mayo against the more Midwestern meatloaf was delectable, and I'm always a fan of cran with my turkey. Like before, the Sentinel really excels with its fresh-baked bread, which tastes like a buttery dinner roll.But the meatloaf wasn't what I was expecting. I wanted a very traditional taste, albeit with turkey instead of beef, but instead I got what was essentially a juicy turkey burger. A good turkey burger, but not the best ever, and not enough like meatloaf for my taste. Also, as you can see from the photos, the mound of turkey was enormous - really too much in proportion to the bread. When I make it at home, I'll opt for a more traditional meatloaf and slice it about an inch thick. Check out my version of the sandwich below.

Turkey Meatloaf Sandwich
Inspired by The Sentinel

Ingredients

1 white or sourdough sandwich roll
1 slice of turkey meatloaf, about 1 to 2 inches thick
2 tablespoons canned whole-berry cranberry sauce
2 tablespoons chipotle mayonnaise
2 leaves of butter lettuce

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F.
Slice the sandwich roll in half horizontally. On each half, spread 1 tablespoon of chipotle mayo.
Lay the sliced meatloaf on the bottom half of bread, then place both halves of bread in the oven for 5 minutes or until bread is lightly toasted.
Cover the meatloaf with a generous dollop of cranberry sauce and spread evenly across the meat.
Cover the cranberry sauce with leaves of butter lettuce, place the other half of the roll on top, cut in half, and serve immediately.

Makes 1 sandwich.

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Adventures in Expensive Sandwiches: 'Wichcraft Anchovy

YumSugar — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 14:00:13 -0700

On my last adventure in expensive sandwiches, I declared that while I will (in rare cases) pay $10 for a sandwich, it'd better be divinely delicious, pretty hefty, and well assembled. I can especially be persuaded to part with serious dough if the sandwich features somewhat weird ingredients, and this white anchovy and soft-cooked egg sandwich from 'Wichcraft is a far cry from turkey and swiss.I've sampled several sammies at 'Wichcraft, the chain cofounded by Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio, and the results have been hit or miss. The slow-roasted pork with red cabbage and jalapeños is divine; the chicken salad is merely ordinary. Obviously, if you hate anchovies, you should probably skip this one, but for the more adventurous, this truly innovative and bold sandwich is worthy of its $8.95 price tag. To find out why, and get the recipe, read more.

The frisée adds an edgy texture to the mild anchovies, and the egg is a creamy counterpoint to the garlicky salsa verde and sweet roasted onion. If you don't have a 'Wichcraft nearby - or if you shudder at the thought of shelling out $8.95 for a sandwich - I've come up with a recipe that lets you re-create it at home.

White Anchovy and Egg Sandwich
Inspired by 'Wichcraft

Ingredients

1/4 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 egg
2 slices country bread, lightly toasted
1/2 cup frisée
6-8 medium-size white anchovies packed in oil, drained
2 tablespoons salsa verde

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F. On a baking sheet, drizzle red onion slices with olive oil. Roast for 15-20 minutes until onion is soft. Set aside and let cool.
In a skillet over low heat, fry an egg to over-medium, so the yolk is soft but not runny.
On one piece of toasted bread, lay the just-cooked egg, and top with frisée.
Over the frisée, arrange anchovies, and top the anchovies with a handful of the roasted onion.
Spread the salsa verde on the other piece of toast, and place the bread atop the anchovies. Cut in half and serve.

Makes 1 sandwich.

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Salsa Verde
Epicurious

Ingredients

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/3 cup chopped fresh chives
1/4 cup drained capers, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

Directions
Mix all ingredients in medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead; chill. Use at room temperature.)

Makes about 1 3/4 cups.

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Adventures in Expensive Sandwiches: The Sentinel Salmon

YumSugar — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:00:43 -0700

I am willing to pay a pretty penny for a good sandwich. But considering that one of my favorites is less than $3, I have very high standards for any sandwich that costs more than $8. I'll pay 10 bucks, but it better be good. Or huge. Or both.On that note, I'm introducing an occasional feature within 'Wich of the Week called Adventures in Expensive Sandwiches. First up: the smoked salmon with horseradish cream cheese, cucumbers, and fennel at The Sentinel. This tiny shop, located just a few blocks from Sugar HQ, was recently opened by Canteen's Dennis Leary. Since I love his fine-dining fare, I decided to give Sentinel a shot. To see what I thought, read more.

The menu changes seasonally and features daily specials, but I went with a Summer fixture. At $8.50, this wasn't the most overpriced sandwich ever, but it also wasn't very big. However, what this and other Sentinel sandwiches really have going for them are the soft, incredibly fresh (like, just out of the oven) white buns they're served on. Like an upscale version of buttery homemade dinner rolls, the bread elevates this salmon sammie.I'll also give credit to the full flavor of the sandwich; mixing horseradish with cream cheese is a yummy idea that comes across well with the cucumber. The salmon was just your standard smoked salmon - nothing mind-blowing - and I couldn't find the fennel mentioned on the menu.

My biggest gripe about Sentinel was the fact that my sandwich was shoddily assembled. The ingredients were sort of thrown together rather than carefully laid out, so I had to rearrange everything before eating. If you're going to the trouble of baking bread from scratch and filling it with high-quality ingredients, is it too much to ask that the sandwich be put together with care? That said, I'm willing to give Sentinel another chance, but it's going to have to try a bit harder next time.