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Catching Up With Chris Cosentino

partysugar — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:04:20 -0700

Since he competed in the Next Iron Chef two Summers ago, San Francisco's acclaimed offal-chef, Chris Cosentino, has been a very busy guy. He's worked nights at his head-to-tail rustic Italian restaurant, Incanto, opened a salumeria, Boccalone, at the Ferry Building in SF, and filmed a new television show, Chef vs. City, for the Food Network. Last week Chris took some time out of his hectic day-to-day to show me the graffiti-style "Shut Up and Cook" mural in the kitchen and to chat about everything from his 4-year-old son's eating habits to why he actively tweets. Find out what the chef had to say and read more.

On the Aug. 7 debut of Chef vs. City: It's very exciting, but it makes you nervous. We've already shot the entire show, but I don't get to see any of the final edits. I am what I am.

On food trends: I don't think food is trendy at all. I'm not reinventing anything here at Incanto. I'm just reintroducing. It's a realization of the past. Folks are more connected to where their food comes from. People are more interested in food - they're sharing with their neighbors, they're joining meat co-ops. They feel more connected to food because it's the ethical thing to do, not because it's trendy. You could say that Korean food is trendy right now, but to me a trend is something that comes, gets really popular, and goes away. Korean food isn't going to go away. It's just that more people are aware of Korean food. It's becoming mainstream, but it's not a trend. It's like bacon, people aren't going to stop eating bacon. Ever.

On his love affair with offal: Working in restaurants you see all the meat come in. Sure, there's always foie gras and sweetbreads, but when I came to work here [at Incanto] I wanted to cook rustic peasant food and the basis for this type of food is using every piece of meat. Using the whole animal. I've started harvesting my own animals and that changes your perspective.

On the one thing he won't eat: I eat everything. The only item I ever disliked - it turned my stomach - was balut.

On what's next for Boccalone: We just launched the mortadella hot dog. I like to do a hot dog during baseball season. We already make mortadella, but now we are just packaging it in a different way. I plan to continue rolling with what we are doing. I like to make really good consistent products. This is what we strive to do on a daily basis.

On how the Internet has changed the role of the modern chef: I have a lot of fun with Twitter. It's only 140 characters, so you really have to think about what you are saying. These sort of things are important because people want to communicate. People want to be in contact with chefs. They want to know how to cook, they want to ask questions. With my website, I try to bridge the gap. It gives me direct contact with the people. The Internet, Twitter, blogs have broken down a barrier. There is more exchanging of information occurring. I try to answer all the emails I get.

On raising a foodie son: My son will eat anything. He's had tripe, he's had beef heart tartar. At the Ferry Building last Saturday, he ate a dozen oysters by himself and he's 4 years old!

Source: Lisa Hamilton

Taste Test: Nduja, Boccalone's Spreadable Salame

YumSugar — Thu, 28 May 2009 06:50:36 -0700

I've long been a fan of local talent Chris Cosentino and his offal-inspired Italian restaurant, Incanto. So when news, well, spread last month that Cosentino's salumeria Boccalone Artisan Meats was debuting the first spreadable salame - Nduja, as it's called - to be produced in the States, I knew I had to get my hands on some right away. Did the salumi live up to all its wonderment? Find out when you read more.

Nduja is nothing new - in fact, it's one of the better-known specialties that comes from the southernmost Italian region of Calabria. Pronounced "en-doo-ya," this delicacy takes its name from the French word andouille, which means "sausage." Made of pork meat, pork fat, salt, and copious amounts of red pepper, nduja is extremely spicy - and, for that reason, considered by many to be an aphrodisiac.

I picked up some spreadable salame at the Boccalone boutique in the Ferry Building Marketplace, but the Oakland-based company also carries most of its products online, including the nduja ($24 for two sausages). Despite my penchant for all things spicy, the nduja, which had a texture slightly firmer than that of liverwurst, was shockingly fiery on the tongue. In addition to possessing the vibrant flavor of Calabrian chili peppers, the burnt-orange-hued meat spread also had a robust porkiness and a hint of aromatic bitterness from the addition of orange rind. The high fat content made for a creamy, smooth texture that was a great foil to crispy water crackers or toasted, grilled bread.

Given all its press, I wondered if nduja would be merely a novelty, but a taste test proved me wrong. With its piquant, highly seasoned flavor, this spreadable delight isn't for everybody, but for those who appreciate spice, it's a worthwhile endeavor. Does spreadable salame sound like something you would try?

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Food Network Stirs the Pot With New Lineup

YumSugar — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 15:00:06 -0700

Belong to the camp that loves watching the Food Network? You'll be happy to know that it's not only bringing back some of its popular shows for more seasons, but it'll also be adding some surprising new developments into the mix.

The Next Food Network Star is back for a fifth season in June - and a sixth is already planned for 2010. Once Top Chef Masters is over, you can tune into season two of The Next Iron Chef, which returns in October. Wondering what happened to season one contestants Chris Cosentino and Aaron Sanchez? Well, they'll be featured in a new program called Chef vs. City.

In the show, which debuts this July, the duo will be "pitted against two local foodies in a winner-takes-all race through a different city each week."

Intrigue is only one word we have for a new cooking show airing in August, starring none other than - you'll never guess - Olympic gold medalist Brian Boitano. In the daytime show - tentatively and humorously titled What Would Brian Boitano Make?, the ice skater will demonstrate how he entertains for friends.

Also coming this year is Sandra Lee's budget-friendly cooking show Sandra's Money Saving Meals and Extreme Cuisine With Jeff Corwin, which sounds like Food Network's answer to Bizarre Foods. In 2010's lineup, Rescue Chef Danny Boome will host a new series that shows diners how to prepare healthier, cheaper versions of their favorite take-out dishes; Alton Brown will host a miniseries on foods that have changed the world; and Anne Burrell tackles a team of hopeless home cooks in Worst Cooks in America.

I can't wait to check out Boitano's show, for the shock factor. I'll also tune into watch Chris Cosentino and Aaron Sanchez, some of my favorites from Next Iron Chef. What shows are you looking forward to watching?

Source

Yummy Links: From David Chang to Hamentashen

partysugar — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 07:50:32 -0700

David Chang is an approved "character" on the USA Network. - Serious Eats
Tips for saving money when ordering wine. - Wall Street Journal
One San Francisco chef expresses his right to enjoy foie gras. - Eat Me Daily
Twelve delicious and affordable ways to prepare ground beef. - The Kitchn
The cookbook nominees for the International Association of Culinary Professionals have been announced. - Al Dente
Do eggs need to be refrigerated? - Chow
Celebrate Purim by making sweet Danish hamentashen. - The Epi-Log

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Would You Eat These Chilis and Bones?

partysugar — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 03:00:27 -0700

Former Next Iron Chef contestant Chris Cosentino is infamous for serving a smörgåsbord of animal innards and extremities at his San Francisco restaurant, Incanto. Although I have yet to experience his delicious cuisine, Brian of SF Weekly, recently savored pig's trotter, pig's heart, and much more at Incanto.

His favorite dish - chilis and bones - consisted of "lengths of meaty tuna spine grilled with a ton of chili, garlic, peppers, capers and mint." Cosentino recommended the tuna spine be consumed like ribs. Being an adventurous eater, I would love to taste this tuna spine especially with such a scrumptious sounding sauce!

How about you? Would you eat these chilis and bones?

Source

A New Battle Begins Over The Next Iron Chef!

YumSugar — Thu, 30 Jul 2009 11:45:51 -0700

Days before the season finale of The Next Food Network Star - and hot off the heels of another captivating Top Chef Masters round - we've learned more about another foodie reality TV show. After the first successful iteration of The Next Iron Chef in 2007 (alums Michael Symon, Chris Cosentino, and Aaron Sanchez have all become Food Network personalities), the show is returning for a second season on Oct. 4.

This season will purportedly "take the contestants from Los Angeles to Japan to New York to compete in the food fight of their professional lives." Alton Brown hosts once again, with the competitors facing the wrath of three judges: returning panelist and restaurateur Donatella Arpaia, Vogue food writer Jeffrey Steingarten, and sustainable advisor (and Slow Food Nation director) Anya Fernald.

Who will be next to join the likes of Bobby Flay, Cat Cora, Mario Batali, Michael Symon, and Masaharu Morimoto (who just confirmed plans to open his first West Coast restaurant)? I've got my speculations - and I'd love to hear yours below. Find out who the 10 contenders are.

Announcing the First Golden Clog Award Nominees

YumSugar — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 09:13:31 -0800

You may know the James Beard Awards, and you might also know the Food Network Awards, but have you heard of the Golden Clog Awards?

Food author Michael Ruhlman - you may remember him from The Next Iron Chef - and bad boy Anthony Bourdain have put their heads together and have created the Golden Clog Awards. They said it's born out of "too many beers and late night yakatori," and I think it's just downright fun. The categories are hysterical, and their reasons even more so. Bourdain has actually managed to nominate himself for an award even! The actual awards will take place this Friday, but if you're curious to see the categories - including "The Alton" and "The Douchebag" - and nominees, read more.

The Fergus:For greatest achievement in pork, and/or guts
Martin Picard of Montreal's "Au Pied de Cochon"; David Chang of New York's "Momofuku Noodle Bar and Momofuku Ssam and ..."; Chris Cosentino of San Francisco's "Incanto"
The Alton: For being on Food Network and yet, somehow managing to Not Suck

Duff Goldman for Ace of Cakes--and for his relative low visibility and seeming lack of cooperation in the usual knuckleheaded FN Holiday co-branded clusterfucks; Ina Garten for actually cooking just about everything impeccably--and for (like Duff) being nearly invisible elsewhere on the Network; Giada de Laurentiis for doing everything (but the food) wrong and yet... still cooking consistently better than she has to.

The Mario: For the chef/restaurateur who best multi-tasked, multi-platformed, merchandised, whored himself, or opened multi-units (either while impaired--or not) and yet STILL managed to protect the quality of the mothership--while continuing to make valuable contributions to the restaurant landscape

Tom Collichio, Thomas Keller, Mario Batali

The Rocco: For worst career move

Gordon Ramsay for the cruel and pointless freak show that is Hell's Kitchen; David Burke for the "Hooters in a Hula skirt" non-charms of Hawaiian Tropic Zone in Times Square; Tyler Florence for Applebees, Applebees, Applebees

The Chef's Chef Award: Also known as The What's a Publicist? Award for the chef who continues to make the kind of food other chefs like, while flying largely under the national radar

Scott Bryan for Veritas and now -- some place in Virginia; Mark Vetri for Osteria and Vetri in Philly; Paul Kahan for Blackbird and Avec in Chicago

The Cat Cora Award: For most fame based on least actual culinary achievement

Guy Fieri for..."Tex Wasabi?"; Tony Bourdain--"One fucking book. Did this asshole ever work anyplace GOOD?"; Robert Irvine--"Sir Robert? Uh....Maybe not. Prince Charles' wedding cake?...uh...no. White House? Hmmm..not according to Walter Scheib....Five Stars? Who IS this guy? Really?"

Looking for Love in all the Wrong Places Award:

MJ Adams at the Corn Exchange in Rapid City SD; Andrew Meek at Sage in Windsor Heights, Iowa; Jim Kyndberg at the Bayport Cookery, Bayport MN; Stuart Tracey of the Pirogue Grill in Bismark, North Dakota

The Steingarten: For the writer or blogger who actually GETS it

Bill Buford for Heat; Pim for Chez Pim; Mike Nagrant for Hungrymag.com

The Douchebag: For the best example of twisted, repressed, or compromised "I'd rather be making lemon bundt cake with My Cat, Mr. Mufflesworth" journalist who actually HATES food and hates the people who make food even more

Alan Richman for taking a big Dump on New Orleans at the worst possible time. And for his totally disingenuous piece on celebrity chefs not being behind the stove when Alan chooses to dine; John Mariani for continuing to be John Mariani and do what he does so well. Which is--apparently--get free stuff; Bob Lape--"Do I have to pay for that?": Regina Schrambling for her deranged, embittered--yet fascinating--gastropoda.com, where she raves and rags on her former employers--(and Mario Batali) like an ex-lover-turned-bag lady.

The Swollen Liver Award: For the chef/or food person who has most consistently resisted the cruel attentions of PETA and the Food Police

Laurent Manrique, Michael Romano, Chris Cosentino, Ariane Daguin

The Crazy Bastard Special Achievement Award: For the chef/operator who did the most insanely wonderful or heroic fucking thing in recent memory

Chef Donald Link of Cochon in New Orleans.

The Supreme Order of Clogness Award: For the chef or restaurateur or food writer or food producer or food "personality" who simply did it best--or made the most significant thing, moved things forward, or changed the landscape of food in wonderful NEW ways

Winner to be announced.

Source

'Wich of the Week: Cap'n Blue Cheese Chicken Sandwich

YumSugar — Wed, 22 Oct 2008 14:00:09 -0700

With double-meat sandwiches, it is important to tread carefully. So for this indulgent combination of marinated chicken and cured meat, I gathered exceptionally gourmet ingredients: Point Reyes blue cheese, capocolla (aka coppa) from Chris Cosentino's Boccalone deli, and organic chicken thighs. Since I was piling meat upon meat with creamy cheese, I made extra-small sandwiches using soft but firm dinner rolls.

Somewhere between salami and pancetta in terms of flavor, the capocolla adds a bacon-y bite, so the resulting cap-and-cheese-laden creation is reminiscent of a bacon cheeseburger without the beef. Using chicken thighs and a nutty, salty marinade adds to the heartiness, while the sautéed mushrooms and tomato help temper the richness. To get the recipe for this double-meat delicacy, read more.

Cap'n Blue Cheese Chicken Sandwich
Original recipe

Ingredients

1/4 cup peanut sauce
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1/3 cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoons hot sauce (such as Tabasco)
4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
8 pieces of thinly sliced capocolla, or coppa
2-ounce block of blue cheese, sliced
2 small roma tomatoes, cut into 8 slices
1 cup button mushrooms, ends trimmed and caps sliced
1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
4 soft but sturdy white dinner rolls

Directions

In a medium bowl, combine the first five ingredients to make the marinade. Toss the chicken thighs in the mixture so that they are evenly coated; cover and refrigerate for 1-3 hours.

Preheat oven to 375°F. Place the chicken thighs, with the marinade, in a casserole dish. Bake for 20 minutes or until the juices run clear.
Heat one tablespoon of butter or olive oil in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the sliced mushrooms and sautée until medium-brown and soft, 10-12 minutes.

To make each sandwich, slice the dinner roll horizontally, stopping just at one edge to create a hinge. On the bottom half, place one chicken thigh, followed by two pieces of capocolla, two slices of blue cheese, and two tomato slices.
Divide the mushrooms evenly among sandwiches, and place atop the tomato. Cover mushrooms with top half of roll and serve.

Makes 4 sandwiches.

Print recipe with images | without images

David Chang on Slow Food (and Fast Food)

YumSugar — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 03:00:08 -0700

On hand at this weekend's Slow Food Nation was Momofuku chef David Chang, whose self-described "vaguely Asian" New York restaurants have catapulted him to celebrity status in the past several years. In a guest appearance at the festival's Green Kitchen, Chang showed the audience Momofuku's twist on caprese salad. As he was prepping for his demonstration, he was kind enough to talk to me about slow food, fast food (Chipotle and In-N-Out are his favorites), future plans, and his latest infatuation. To read what he had to say, read more.

YumSugar: Why did you get involved with Slow Food Nation?
DC: Alice [Waters] asked me to be a part of it. I've gotten to know a lot of work that she does outside of Chez Panisse. I'm not affiliated [with Slow Food] . . . but they're trying to preserve certain traditions. At the very least, it's a really amazing opportunity for people to try new things.

YS: What do you think of those who see Slow Food as an expensive cause for food snobs?
DC: I understand both points. They’re not trying to hurt people. They just want to share. It's a byproduct of American culture - the fact that we don’t have a food culture - to enjoy food is to be elitist. To not eat fast food means that you’re in a different income bracket.

YS: Where will you dine while you're in town?
DC: I'm going to eat at Michael Mina and Quince. I want to check out Daniel Patterson's restaurant [Coi]. My good friend Ed Carew opened up the Cottage Eatery with his wife in Tiburon. Tonight I'm going to go to A16. Tomorrow we're going to Chris Cosentino's restaurant [Incanto], and then we're going to Napa. I always like Bouchon, and I'd love to check out Jeremy [Fox]'s new restaurant Ubuntu.

YS: What do you consider to be your greatest culinary accomplishment?
DC: I don’t know. Honestly, [the fame], it's absurd and comedic. I’m just that dude!

YS: Where do you eat when you're not working?
DC: I love wd-50 and Peasant. I love to go to Per Se, and Hearth is a great restaurant. I love all the Grand Sichuans and Oriental Garden.

YS: What's next for you? There's been lots of speculation.
DC: Maybe trying to unravel all of this? We’re doing lunch for Ko, renovating Ssäm Bar, and redoing the menu at Noodle Bar. We’re doing an expansion of soft-serve, bakery, and dessert at the Ssäm Bar. That's a lot. So while there’s all this talk about future projects, that’s certainly flattering, but we’re just trying to keep it running.

YS: I hear you want to start an Edible Schoolyard in New York, Alice Waters-style.
DC: I would love to. That would be really great.

YS: Noodles or rice?
DC: Rice. Right now I’m infatuated with rice. As much as I love noodles, it’s the year of the rice for me, for all of the [Momofuku] restaurants. Nobody knows anything about rice. Think about Vietnamese cuisine. How the hell do you make rice with no technology? It’s pretty impressive.

YS: Top Chef or Iron Chef?
DC: Neither. I’d like Iron Chef more if Alex Lee never lost. Alex Lee may be the greatest chef America never knew about - maybe the greatest chef America ever produced - and he lost, which is a bunch of bulls**t. Top Chef is great. I used to watch it, but once you start seeing people that you know on TV, the contestants, it's like watching a train wreck. I don’t want to watch it.

YS: Tokyo or Paris?
DC: F**k, that's hard. I'm gonna say Paris.

YS: Truffles or foie gras?
DC: What kind of truffles? We'll go with truffles - no, both. I want to have my cake and eat it too.

YS: Amuse-bouche or dessert?
DC: Amuse.

YS: Chinese takeout or pizza delivery?
DC: I love both! Chinese takeout.

Source

You Ready For The Next Iron Chef?

YumSugar — Tue, 17 Jul 2007 07:58:38 -0700

Somewhere along the line, Food Network changed its programming from cooking to reality tv. If you don't believe me, then just check out the new ~~publicity stunt~~ show that's premiering on October 7th. The show is called "The Next Iron Chef" and they're looking for, well, the next Iron Chef - as in someone to join Flay, Batali, Cora and Morimoto. However unlike the Next Food Network Star, the contestants actually represent some of the nations hottest culinary talents. Bob Tuschman (Food Network's Senior VP of Programming and Production) says:

"In our quest, we are looking for an individual to complement the current group and bring a unique blend of innovation, creativity and passion to the show."

The show will be hosted by Alton Brown (who I hope will be less pissy than he was on NFNS), and will be judged by Michael Ruhlman (James Beard Foundation Award-winning author, cookbook author and food writer), Andrew Knowlton (Restaurant Editor of Bon Appetit magazine) and Donatella Arpaia (restaurateur and owner of acclaimed New York City restaurants davidburke&donatella and Anthos).

To see who the eight competitors are, read more

John Besh (New Orleans, LA) Executive Chef, Restaurant August, Besh Steak, Luke and La Provence
Chris Cosentino (San Francisco, CA) Executive Chef, Incanto
Jill Davie (Santa Monica, CA) Executive Chef, JOSIE
Traci Des Jardins (San Francisco, CA) Executive Chef & Co-Owner, Jardiniere, Mijita and Acme Chophouse
Gavin Kaysen (San Diego, CA) Chef de Cuisine, El Bizcocho at the Rancho Bernardo Inn
Morou Ouattara (Washington, DC) Executive Chef & Owner, Farrah Olivia
Aaron Sanchez (New York, NY) Executive Chef & Owner, Centrico and Paladar
Michael Symon (Cleveland, OH) Executive Chef & Owner, Lola and Lolita

I don't know about you guys, but this is one reality cooking show that I'm actually interested in.

Source: PR Newswire