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Let's Dish: Whose Recipes Do You Trust?

YumSugar — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:50:54 -0700

Whether it's custard that won't set or brittle fleur de sel caramels, we've all had failed cooking attempts. But when disaster strikes while closely following a recipe, it poses the question: Whose recipes can be trusted? And whose cannot? Most religious recipe followers seem to have culinary experts they've come to trust. For example, I find it hard to pick on anything by famed perfectionist Thomas Keller. Same with any cookbook that's been tested over and over again, like those from the late Sheila Lukins. And I've never been able to find fault in a recipe from Tyler Florence or Ina Garten. Whose recipes have you counted on time and time again?

Sheila Lukins, Cookbook Pioneer, Dies at 66

YumSugar — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:30:38 -0700

In sad news, food legend Sheila Lukins, the author of such famed tomes as The New Basics and The Silver Palate Cookbook, passed away Sunday at her home in Manhattan after a three-month fight with brain cancer.

Lukins was credited with broadening the taste buds of American cooks. At a time when canned cream soups and fussy French recipes were the rage, she made dishes like gazpacho and Indonesian lamb stew accessible to home chefs. In 1977, she opened the Silver Palate food shop, and five years later, the first of four Silver Palate cookbooks followed.
Most recently, Lukins penned Ten: All the Foods We Love and Ten Recipes For Each, which combined her expertise with 32 chapters on her favorite foods, with 10 recipes for each. When we sat down to breakfast with her not too long ago, she spoke about her rigorous recipe-testing process, the importance of reading recipes thoroughly, and eating seasonally.

Our thoughts are with Sheila's family and friends during this difficult time.

Photo: Francesco Scavullo

Seafood Cocktail Two Ways - Beginner and Expert

YumSugar — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 03:30:26 -0700

Now that it's Summer, all the attention has been turned to typical warm-weather fare, like barbecue and burgers. But don't discount fresh seafood dishes as wonderful additions to any backyard feast. Items like ceviche and shrimp rémoulade will help break up monotony at the appetizer table - as will an exotic, indulgent seafood cocktail.

Have limited time? Start with shellfish that's conveniently already cooked, and you'll have a stunning single-serving appetizer in a matter of minutes. If you've got more time and skill, purchase raw seafood and prepare a classic Latin seafood dish from scratch for much less. To make either seafood cocktail, read more.

Beginner Seafood Cocktail
From Parade

Ingredients

3/4 pound cooked large shrimp (peeled, deveined, tails removed), halved crosswise
1/2 pound fresh lump crabmeat, cartilage removed
1/2 pound fresh lobster meat, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup finely diced carrot
1/4 cup finely diced celery
1 tablespoon drained tiny capers
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon finely minced red or green jalapeño pepper, ribs and seeds removed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/3 cup highest quality extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 large lemon)

Directions

Place the shrimp, crab, lobster, carrot, celery and capers in a large bowl. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold together the ingredients, being careful not to break up the crab too much. Season with salt and pepper.
Add the jalapeño pepper and parsley, then carefully fold in the olive oil and lemon juice, tasting as you go along. Adjust the seasonings and serve immediately, or chill for up to 6 hours. Divide seafood between 8 wine glasses for serving.

Serves 8.

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Expert Seafood Cocktail
From Food & Wine

Ingredients

1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup tomato juice
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Hot sauce
2 pounds shelled and deveined large shrimp
1/2 pound cleaned squid, cut into 1/2-inch rings, tentacles halved
2 pounds tomatoes-halved, seeded and finely diced
2 Hass avocados, cut into 1/2-inch dice
4 scallions, white and tender green parts only, thinly sliced
1 small red onion, finely diced
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
Plantain chips, for serving

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and fill a large bowl with ice water. In another large bowl, whisk the lime, orange and tomato juices with the tomato paste. Season with salt, pepper and hot sauce.
Cook the shrimp in the boiling water just until curled and pink, about 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to the ice water. Return the pot of water to a boil and add the squid. Cook for 30 seconds, until firm but tender. Drain immediately and add to the ice water.
When cool, drain the shrimp and squid and pat dry. Add to the bowl with the juices and toss to coat. Transfer the mixture to a large resealable plastic bag. Close the bag, pressing out the air. Refrigerate overnight, turning the bag occasionally.
Transfer the seafood salad to a bowl and stir in the tomatoes, avocados, scallions, onion, cilantro and parsley; season with salt, pepper and hot sauce. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Using a slotted spoon, scoop into martini glasses and serve with the plantain chips.

Serves 12.

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Talking Food With Cookbook Authority Sheila Lukins

YumSugar — Thu, 05 Feb 2009 16:15:00 -0800

Sheila Lukins is one of America's most prolific cookbook authors. More than 25 years ago, she published The Silver Palate Cookbook, which introduced the boomer generation to upscale at-home cuisine. In addition to publishing other blockbuster cookbooks, Lukins has edited the food pages of Parade magazine for over 20 years.

I had a chance to enjoy breakfast with Sheila on a sunny Saturday morning, while she was on tour for Ten, her latest (and seventh!) cookbook. Over coffee, she offered her best tips for home cooks, and talked about the ever-so-controversial seasonality issue. To see more of what she had to say, read more.

YumSugar: Why did you come out with Ten?
Sheila Lukins: My editor [Peter Workman], and I were talking about all the foods we craved. Everybody really has the same favorite foods; we all love noodles, ribs, Italian food. He said, there's a book in that - you could have 10 recipes for each of your favorite foods.

YS: You've got whole chapters dedicated to tomatoes, corn, asparagus. Should home cooks use seasonal vegetables year-round?
SL: I believe in eating seasonally; there's nothing like going to the farmers market and getting Silver Queen corn, but you get certain things year-round these days. It's not like I want to eat hard or yellow strawberries, but . . . certain tomatoes, let them ripen on the counter, and they're okay. I'm not going to say I'm never going to eat [an out-of-season] tomato.

YS: Why do you think your books resonate with people?
SL: The recipes are so clearly written; they are so specific. I make up every recipe, first with a yellow pad at the stove, at home, in my own kitchen - and they work. We go over it and over it and over it. You can't do bad recipes, and then have people spend money on ingredients and get a recipe that doesn't work well. That's so horrible.

YS: What were some of your most memorable moments in the kitchen?
SL: I got almost electrocuted by an eggplant. I wrapped it in aluminum foil and was baking it so I could make baba ghanoush. I opened the foil and got a horrible shock!

YS: What's your advice for the home cook?
SL: Find a couple things you enjoy making. Try them ahead of time, then make them when you're having people over. Don't feel like you have to make every dish in a cookbook. Most people don't; they have their favorites. Read recipes through, and be sure you have your ingredients. Make sure you check your cabinets, and keep things in stock so you don't have to keep shopping from scratch every time you want to cook.

YS: Where are your favorite places to eat out?
SL: In New York, I used to go downtown a lot, but now I go a lot less because there are such good places on the Upper West Side. I love Tom Valenti and his restaurants - that would be Ouest, and a new one, West Branch. Craft is very good for special occasions. Love Balthazar. I always get Chinese food from Shun Lee West, and I get pizza from Patsy's because they deliver, and it's near my house. Because I've lived on the Upper West Side, these are places that are very convenient to me, and also very delicious. We used to have no good food on the Upper West Side. Daniel Boulud just opened Bar Boulud, and I go there a lot.

Photo Courtesy of Francesco Scavullo

Delve Into This Sticky Toffee Pudding

YumSugar — Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:00:52 -0800

On Tuesday, I revealed what Barack Obama would be eating for his last supper before the big day. Many of you were impressed by the elegant-sounding menu - but in particular, you were dreaming of the dessert, a warm sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream.

Our stars must be aligned: for my favorite uncle's birthday last weekend, I made this dream of a cake from a recipe in Sheila Lukins's stellar new book, Ten. In case you didn't know, sticky toffee pudding isn't actually a pudding. Rather, it's a traditional British dessert that's made with date-flavored sponge cake and drenched in a toffee sauce. With its moist cake and gooey, syrupy caramelized sauce, this dessert is bound to catch on in the United States. To make this simple cake for yourself, read more.

Sticky Toffee Date Cake
From Ten by Sheila Lukins

Ingredients

Cake:
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing the pan
8 ounces pitted dried dates, chopped
1 teaspoon baking soda
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 tablespoons baking powder
Sauce:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1 cup (packed) light or dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, for serving

Directions

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter the bottom and the sides of a 9-inch round cake pan. Set the pan aside.
Place the chopped dates in a small saucepan, add 1 cup water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 3 minutes. Stir in the baking soda (the mixture will bubble up slightly). Set the pan aside to cool.
Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until the mixture is light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. With the mixer on low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the vanilla and mix to combine.
Add the flour and salt, and mix to combine. Stir in the dates, including any liquid, and then stir in the baking powder.
Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan, and bake until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Do not overbake or the cake will be dry.
Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Then remove the cake from the pan, and place it on a plate.
While the cake is cooking, prepare the sauce: Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small saucepan. Place the pan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring, until the butter has melted and the sauce is smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Raise the heat slightly, and simmer until the sauce thickens slightly, 3 minutes. Let the sauce cool for about 5 minutes.
Using a skewer, poke holes all over the surface of the cake. Pour the sauce over the cake while both are still warm.
Serve the cake warm, with ice cream or whipped cream on top.

Serves 8.

Note: This cake can be frozen and reheated. To freeze cake, cool it completely, cut into wedges, and freeze each well-wrapped wedge for up to 2 months. A slice can be thawed and reheated. Reheat in a 350ºF oven for 10 minutes.

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Must-Read: Ten

YumSugar — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 14:00:54 -0800

Sheila Lukins, food editor for Parade magazine and author of the The New Basics and The Silver Palate Cookbook, is known for her all-encompassing books, which are packed with reliable recipes for traditional American fare. Her seventh recipe collection, entitled Ten: All the Foods We Love and Ten Recipes For Each ($19.95), combines cooking expertise with an unconventional format: 32 chapters on her favorite foods, with 10 recipes for each. See what I thought of it when you read more.

Pros:

The contemporary format is a refreshing departure from the organization of an ordinary cookbook.
There's an impressive collection of recipes for each category. Love roasted chicken? You'll find 10 recipes, side by side in the same book, for you to compare and contrast.
Each chapter contains a helpful introduction, and Lukins includes a background summary for every single recipe in the book.
Much like her other cookbooks, Ten contains a wide repertoire of dishes from cocktails to sorbets.

Cons:

Recipes, which range from simple to complex, aren't ideal for the beginner cook.
If you're a visual cook, you'll get little help here, as there are few pictures.
The book is paperback, which means that it will be subject to lots of wear and tear if you cook with it frequently.

Recipes: The recipes are arranged into 32 categories. Here are some I hope to experiment with:

Cocktails: Honeydew Daiquiri, Floradora
Spreads, Dips, and Finger Foods: Sugar-and-Spice Nuts, Shrimp Toasts
Small Plates: Celeri Rémoulade, Salmon Caviar-Stuffed Eggs
Chops: Lamb Loin with Orange Béarnaise, Rack of Veal
Chicken - Roasted and Baked: Herb-Roasted Chicken, Zuni Roast Chicken
Lobster Anytime: Lobster Fra Diavolo, Creamy Lobster Stew
Leafy Salads: Beet and Endive Salad, Frisée and Apple Salad
Corn: Summer Corn Chowder, Corn and Crabmeat Salad
Ice Cream and Sorbets: Bill Gross's Burnt Orange Ice Cream, Green Apple Sorbet

Imagery: The book is short on images, but the select few in the beginning are enough to inspire.

Overall Rating: If you're a more experienced cook and a fan of Sheila's recipes, you're bound to enjoy this collection of recipes. To get a better preview of the book's format, click on the gallery below.

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Summer Reading: The New Basics

partysugar — Sat, 11 Aug 2007 05:31:31 -0700

When I was trying to determine which cookbook was my favorite - for our current summer reading challenge - The New Basics by Sheila Lukins & Julee Russo, came in at a close second. What I love about this cookbook is that it covers everything from appetizers and cocktails to sauces and desserts. This cookbook lives at my vacation house so I make dishes there while relaxing at the cabin - except for the few that I have memorized such as tasty chicken, bacon, and avocado sandwich or the classic mustard vinaigrette.

The New Basics is such a complete and reliable source for recipes that I never have to pack my cookbooks or recipe folders. In summer, I make the key lime pie and in winter I make the cheese and beer soup. Usually I prefer cookbooks with lots of colorful images, but the blank pages and black and white illustrations are oddly comforting. If you are looking for a cookbook that basically covers everything, I suggest checking this out!

Let's Dish: What's Your Favorite Cookbook of All Time?

YumSugar — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 06:50:01 -0700

Since I just quizzed your knowledge of classic cooking works, I figured I'd go full circle: Whether it's battered and old or trendy and new, I'm curious to know what your most beloved kitchen book is. I have so many, it's hard to pick, but among them, I love the Bon Appétit Cookbook for its exhaustive collection of American recipes, and Ten by Sheila Lukins for its thoroughly tested instructions, as well as On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee. Even though the last isn't technically a cookbook, it's a great resource for understanding the chemical interactions between food ingredients, and the science behind various cooking methods.

What are your favorite cookbooks?

Ten by Sheila Lukins

YumSugar — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 11:54:44 -0800

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What's Yummy This Week - YumSugar Weekly Recap

YumSugar — Sat, 07 Feb 2009 09:30:53 -0800

When Party makes Spanish cream cheese canapés in a quickfire, everyone wins.
We're giving away a KitchenAid in our sweetest V-Day giveaway ever!
Party invites seven of her best friends to get away for a fun Winter Weekend.
Our favorite cheftestant gets booted on this week's Top Chef.
Five things we have to have this month!
Cookbook authority Sheila Lukins reveals her best cooking advice.
Get lucky by eating one of these seven savory aphrodisiac foods.